Grand Seiko has launched its smallest and slimmest calibre 9F quartz-powered watches yet, in 33 mm stainless steel cases with with fan-favourite “Snowflake” and “Skyflake” dials. The compact proportions of the Snowflake SBGX359 and Skyflake SBGX361 are made possible thanks to a new member of the 9F family: the cal. 9F51. Though smaller, the new calibre retains all the technical bells and whistles of this class-leading quartz platform.

Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake).

Initial thoughts

While Grand Seiko’s quartz models are generally known as good value propositions, with the cal. 9F in particular representing a lot of movement for the money, that has generally been less true of the brand’s smaller models. These maintain the brand’s standout case and dial work but with relatively pedestrian cal. 4J movements. Though above average in terms of quality and technology, the cal. 4J lacks the torque necessary to accommodate the exceptionally large and refined hands found on most Grand Seikos.

Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake).

Given the brand’s recent emphasis on Spring Drive technology, seemingly at the expense of battery-powered quartz movements, that seemed unlikely to change. In this context, this duo is a pleasant surprise, with more likely to follow, and offers a no-compromise Grand Seiko experience in a smaller size without the high price tags of the ladies automatic line.

A flagship movement

Seiko launched the cal. 9F family of battery-powered quartz movements in 1993. These movements were built to unusually high standards for the 1990s and are comparable to Rolex’s Oysterquartz. With the cal. 9F, Seiko aimed to solve timekeeping problems mechanically, foreshadowing Spring Drive’s launch in 1999.

For example, rather than using a separate motor for an instantaneous date change, the cal. 9F uses a cam-based system to slowly store energy over several hours before releasing it in 1/2000th of a second. It also uses a clever hairspring-based system to prevent seconds hand backlash, an approach that is more energy efficient than the friction or detent springs used for this purpose in past Seiko calibres.

Hairspring of the Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism. Image – Grand Seiko

The sum of these, and many other decisions – such as the sealed capsule for the train, or putting prospective quartz crystals though a 90-day gauntlet and selecting only the most stable – result in a calibre made to last forever; it likely will.

A tight squeeze

However, for all its virtues, the cal. 9F is quite large and rather expensive to produce. This explains why, during the 1990s and 2000s, it shared the catalogue with numerous other quartz calibres that later disappeared as Grand Seiko crept up-market and tastes shifted to larger watches, leaving the diminutive cal. 4J its the sole companion.

Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake).

Thanks to the new no-date cal. 9F51, Grand Seiko’s flagship quartz movement comes in its smallest package yet at just 33 mm in diameter. The most noticeable upgrade over Grand Seiko’s cal. 4J powered ladies watches is the hands – Grand Seiko’s signature thick and immaculately diamond-cut hands are too heavy for most quartz movements.

Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake).

However, the 33 mm sizing is likely the floor for round cal. 9F-powered watches, as the new calibre is only 0.6 mm smaller in diameter than the existing cal. 9F61 – and still larger than an ETA 2824. It is worth noting that, while only ever used in round watches, the lozenge-shaped cal. 9F can fit in even narrower rectangular watches, which Grand Seiko has a history of doing.

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Quartz 33mm 9F51-0AA0
Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake)
Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake)

Diameter: 33.0 mm
Height: 9.1 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: cal. 9F51
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, low battery indicator.
Frequency: 32,768 Hz
Power reserve: About 3 years

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp.

Limited edition: Not limited
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting April 2026
Price: US$3,200 excluding taxes

For more, visit Grand-seiko.com.

Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has spent much of its life living in the shadow of the Royal Oak, but the latest 38 mm iteration suggests the collection might be finding its footing. The smaller Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding 38 mm refines the line’s distinctive case architecture with more convincing proportions, slimmer leather straps, and richly textured embossed dials. Neither overtly sporty nor conventionally dressy, the 18k rose gold Code 11.59 positions itself as a modern dress watch with real character that is quite convincing on the wrist.

Initial thoughts

It’s no secret that the Code 11.59 lives in the shadow of AP’s flagship product, the Royal Oak. In the seven years since its debut, the Code has yet to have its breakout moment. Many may remember the troubled launch of the collection, which met with an unnecessarily negative response from the market. But there’s a thin line between love and hate, and AP has been steadily improving the proportions, textures, materials, and complications over the past few years, and the tipping point could be imminent.

The Code claims the middle ground in the false dichotomy between dressy and sporty, which makes it difficult for casual enthusiasts and collectors to fully understand. The 38 mm size, now with a new strap design, helps position the Code more concretely in the the dress watch camp, where its 9.6 mm thickness and 30 m water resistance rating feel more appropriate.

Despite the criticism that’s been leveled against the Code in the past, it has always had one of the most interesting case constructions on the market, characterised by its faceted octagonal mid-case. It’s rare for a round dress watch case to have much character at all, let alone a design that is distinctive enough to be immediately recognisable on its own.

The 38 mm size debuted in 2023 powered by the calibre 5900, a movement supplied by Vaucher. It’s an industrial-haute horlogerie movement built to a similar standard as AP’s own in-house calibres, with a health 60-hour power reserve and a free-sprung balance suspended by a full balance bridge.

The distinctive nature of the Code 11.59 makes comparative judgements difficult, but the pricing of US$37,700 reflects AP’s commanding position in the industry as much as it does the quality of the product, which is easily tangible.

Made to be worn

The key strength of the Code 11.59 has always been its case. The construction is unusual, with lugs attached only at the bezel, and an octagonal mid-case that references the famous bezel of the Royal Oak. The open lugs sit flush with the case back, but do not attach. The resulting design is distinctive in a way that few dress watches can manage. This pays dividends on the wrist, but much of the effect is lost when viewed or photographed straight-on — a significant drawback in an increasingly Instagram-centric collector community.

That said, one element has been improved that should make for more appealing wristshots: the strap. Previously, the Code 11.59 was offered primarily on an embossed leather-backed rubber strap with substantial padding. While comfortable, this design resulted in excessive visual bulk on the wrist. The new alligator and calfskin leather straps are thinner and depart the lugs at a steeper angle, improving the look and feel on the wrist.

Radiant and radial

The Code 11.59 debuted in 2019 with a glossy lacquer dial, a choice that was arguably too simplistic given the richness of the case design. This oversight was remedied in 2023 when the brand commissioned Yann von Kaenel of Décors Guillochés in Neuchatel to create special hand-cut dies for stamping the next generation of dials. The embossed radial pattern is attractive and pleasantly three-dimensional up close (especially under magnification). It’s not a recreation of any specific traditional guilloché motif, and looks suitably contemporary.

Having been released in a variety of colours previously, the stable expands with silver and black dials with rose gold dial furniture. Interestingly the gold hands, which were also refreshed in 2023, feature repeating lozenge shapes, echoing the famous hands and hour markers of the Royal Oak.

A compact calibre

The cal. 5900 that powers the 38 mm Code 11.59 is the same movement found in the 37 mm Royal Oak. It’s about 3 mm smaller in diameter than the brand’s latest in-house cal. 7121 found in the “Jumbo” 39 mm Royal Oak. While the smaller diameter is crucial for smaller cases, the cal. 5900 could actually be a bit bigger and still fit just fine.

The cal. 5900’s compact dimensions are impressive given its double-barrel architecture and centre-seconds layout, being just 0.5 mm thicker than the cal. 7121, which is positioned as an ultra-thin movement. Overall, the Vaucher-derived movement is not dissimilar from AP’s in-house movements, featuring a full balance bridge and a free-sprung balance, making it fit right in.

The finishing is largely applied by machine, as is typical in this segment, but a few polished interior angles on the winding mass are suggestive of the brand’s high horology heritage.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm
Ref. 77410OR.OO.A127CR.01 (black)
Ref. 77410OR.OO.A402VE.01 (silver)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 9.6 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 5900
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: US$37,700 excluding taxes