Roger Dubuis continues its decade-long exploration of Arthurian mythos with The Enchanter Merlin, the twelfth iteration in its fantastical Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, and the second Merlin-themed watch in the series.

At the heart of the spectacle is a highly architectural dial composed of 56 stepped columns, inspired by the basalt pillars of Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. The columns are rendered in a variety of materials, including Murano glass, vitreous enamel, and invisibly set diamonds. Above them stand 12 hand-engraved knights, each a unique character from the Matter of Britain, the medieval tales of King Arthur and his knights.

Initial Thoughts

Geneva has a long tradition in the decorative arts dating to the 18th century, mostly focused on enamelled boxes, small clocks, and of course, watches. It’s only natural that a Genevan watchmaker like Roger Dubius would continue that tradition, as do neighbouring Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 2013, Roger Dubius launched the first KRT watch with a miniature enamel replica of the famous Round Table in Winchester’s Great Hall.

Since then Roger Dubuis has pushed the boundaries of what can be reasonably called a “table” with striking results. While the miniatures were what made the first KRT special, The Enchanter Merlin’s basalt pillar-inspired crystal palace dial could easily stand on its own (perhaps Kollokium should take notes for its next Projekt).

The 45 mm case is 18k pink gold, and would probably seem monstrously large were it not for the captivating dial, which uses the volume of the case to good effect. The large size of the case is probably the only shortcoming of the watch, as it limits wearability, but the target audience, the hard-to-miss case is likely a selling point.

It’s also worth pointing out the automatic RD481 movement inside. The calibre is a little too small for the case, but appealingly classical in its layout, likely inspired by the Patek Philippe cal. 27-460 AT and the earlier cal. 12-600, two of the most beautiful automatics ever built.

The RD480/481 as seen in another model that reveals more of the calibre’s details

Knights of lore

The latest in a long running series within the Excalibur collection, The Enchanter Merlin marks the 12th instalment of the Knights of the Round Table series. This follows up last year’s edition, The Omniscient Merlin, and continues the basalt pillar motif on the dial but now in a new colour scheme. The motif also takes inspiration from the crystal palace Merlin magicked into being for the Lady of the Lake.

Housed in a 45 mm 18k pink gold case, the 28-piece limited edition combines gem-setting, micro-sculpture, and a glittering dial structure inspired by the basalt pillars of Giant’s Causeway. A layer of sapphire crystal is sandwiched between the bezel and mid-case, flooding the scene with light and allowing closer inspection of the miniatures. The crown, styled like an actual crown, is ringed in glass to match the case. 

Twelve unique knights are positioned around the dial, each just 6 mm tall and cast from 18k pink gold. Engravers then add the many fine details by hand, sharpening the tiny blades, defining the feathers of their helmet plumes, and so on. The figures are intentionally aged, just the right amount so that the patina adds contrast.

Not only are each of the 12 knights unique, each corresponds to a specific Matter of Britain character. Noon is, of course, King Arthur, and Sir Lancelot – the most famous of the knights – stands by his side at one o’clock. Sir Tristan, at three o’clock, is kneeling to avoid bumping his head on the crystal as he is positioned atop the crown tube.

Fifty-six basalt columns, ranging from 0.2 to 3.7 mm tall, sit on a gold table decorated with ruthenium crystals, a technique recently spotted on the Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium. The crystals are meant to evoke the sparkling surface of The Lake, though could also pass for pave-set diamonds at a glance.

There are nine Murano glass columns, 19 in polished white vitreous enamel and a further nine in matte white vitreous enamel, nine in 18k pink gold, and finally nine in rhodium plated 18k gold. The rhodonized columns carry invisible-set hexagonal diamonds.

Partly visible through the back is the RD821. Like all current Roger Dubius movements, it bears the Poincon de Geneve, meaning it meets relatively high standards for construction, finishing, and decoration.

Today the seal also includes (somewhat lenient) performance requirements for accuracy. However, at 11.5”’ (~26 mm) in diameter, the calibre is much too small for the 45 mm case, an impression that Roger Dubius obfuscates with an open-worked 18k gold 360° rotor.

Key facts and price

Roger Dubuis Knights of The Round Table The Enchanter Merlin
Ref. RDDBEX1117

Diameter: 45 mm
Height: 16.87
Material: 18k pink gold and sapphire
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: RD821
Functions: Hour and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Leather strap with folding clasp 

Limited edition: 28 pieces
Availability: At Roger Dubuis boutiques only
Price: US$398,500 excluding tax

For more information, visit Rogerdubuis.com.

Seiko celebrates 75 years of the Peanuts with a King Seiko Vanac Peanuts 75th Anniversary SDKV011, with everyone’s favourite Beagle on a newspaper-inspired dial. Limited to only 150 pieces for Japan only, foreigners will need to get creative if they want one.

Initial Thoughts

Peanuts is huge in Japan – or more accurately, Snoopy is. Grandberry Park in Tokyo plays host to a three-story tall Snoopy museum that receives several times as many yearly visitors as the Charles M. Schulz Museum in California. It should be no surprise then that the new Vanac is for the Japanese market only, which is unfortunate as it is an appealing watch for a relatively reasonable price.

While a bit late to the integrated bracelet sports watch craze since it was only launched earlier this year, the Vanac is competitive in its segment thanks to standout case finishing and a highly competent movement. The new edition retains all the appeal of the standard model; the two-tone dial with gilt accents and Peanuts characters is subtle and a little retro in keeping with the design’s origins.

A Snoopified King Seiko

King Seiko is a Seiko sub-brand positioned just below the better-known Grand Seiko. The marque emerged from a multi-decade hibernation in 2021. Seiko launched original King Seiko Vanac line during the early 1970s, with sharp angular cases, colourful iridescent dials and faceted crystals – but the latter is missing on the modern Vanac. That absence stings as a faceted crystal would be an ideal match for the angular case, but is more a missed opportunity than a fatal flaw.

The dial features “Joe Cool” on the dial, one of Snoopy’s many alter-egos, wearing a crown and accompanied by his best friend Woodstock. This black and white colour scheme is unique to this model, meant to match Snoopy, with gold accents to match his crown – and Woodstock. The texture is also unique, meant to resemble stacked newspapers. Snoopy’s crown is from an April 1990 comic arc, in which Snoopy gives Woodstock a cardboard crown, proclaiming him “King of the Jungle”.

The diademed dog returns on the case back remarking, “it just fits” a reference to the April 21, 1990 strip, in which Woodstock tires of his royal responsibilities, and gives up his crown and throne (a park-bench) to Snoopy. Another nod, the limited edition number is in a comic-like text face.

Image – Charles M. Schulz Museum

And finally, the watch arrives in a Peanuts branded box, along with a King Seiko watch roll.

Edgy Case and Bracelet

The 41 mm Vanac case is essentially a stretched hexagon – like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept but without a bezel. Instead the box section sapphire hunkers down into the mid case, like some – but not all – Vanacs of the past. At 14.3 mm tall, the watch is rather thick, though much of that height is in the crystal. It is reassuringly water resistant to 100 m, with a screw down crown for added peace of mind.

The faceted flanks are finished with flat-mirror polish, applied using the side of a spinning tin plate, while the facets at six and 12 o’clock are brush to match the bracelet. The integrated bracelet continues the case’s angular design. Unusually, Seiko equipped the Vanac bracelet with a butterfly clasp and toolless quick-release system – the latter will be more useful once Vanac comparable straps arrive.

Seiko’s (Pen)ultimate Movement

Despite its modest price tag, Seiko equips the Vanac with its best movement outside of the Grand Seiko stable. The cal. 8L45 is based on the Grand Seiko cal. 9S65, and with that comes a 72 hour power reserve and a reverser wheel bidirectional winding system.

It uses the same assortment found in the 9S65 as well, which is why the balance spring coils counterclockwise – the opposite direction to the 8L35. As a result, Seiko rates the 8L34 to -5/+10 seconds per day, better even than mechanical Credors. Like other 8L and 9S movements, it proprietary regulator that is more upscale than than the Etachron system found on the 6R and 5R families.

Key facts and price

Seiko King Seiko Vanac Peanuts 75th Anniversary 8L45-00D0
Ref. SDKV011

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 14.3 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m 

Movement: Cal. 8L45
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Stainless steel bracelet

Limited edition: Limited to 150 pieces
Availability: From Novemeber 2025 at Seiko salons in Japan only
Price: JPY495,000 (~US$3,200)

For more information, visit seikowatches.com.