Voutilainen turns the popular three-hand formula inside out to put the movement front and centre, now with a titanium cushion-case for the first time. The KV20i Reversed CS is not revolutionary, instead building on the KV20i Reversed Cherry from last year, but the movement remains one of the best in its segment, with hands, case, and half of a dial to match.

Initial Thoughts

Kari Voutilainen is a seminal figure in independent watchmaking, partly responsible for the popularity of elaborately decorated three-hand watches with dazzling guilloche dials – and not just because his company, Comblémine, makes a good number of those guilloche dials for other brands.

Mr Voutilainen was at least a decade ahead of his time with his Observatoire of 2007, a watch that, alongside Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity, cultivated a market for this format. Nearly two decades later, his watches stand out less aesthetically, but his quality remains superlative – and has even improved.

An Observatoire made in 2007, now 18 years old. Image – Phillips

The cushion-shaped case is a new variable in a familiar formula, taking after the unique TP1 pocket watch Kari and Venla Voutilainen made for Only Watch 2019. Four prominent security screws hold the case together, and make for a more contemporary aesthetic that works well with Kari’s already pleasantly eclectic style. And for better or worse (depending on the collector’s taste) the Reversed CS leaves ample room for customisation.

Beyond the case, the movement is time-only but outstanding. Today, some makers get so caught up in the decoration that they neglect the actual watchmaking, resulting in dazzling movements that do not necessarily merit their fine finish. That is not the case with the Reversed CS.

Though well into six figures, Voutilainen’s watches remain palatably priced – at least in the current climate of independent watchmaking – considering their technical and aesthetic merit. That said, the lead times are not trivial.

Of Case and Face

The CS case shape made its wristwatch debut with the TMZ CSW world timer, and it now graces Voutilainen’s latest reversed timekeeper – building on the conventional model that debuted last year.

While the famous tear-drop lugs are absent, Voutilainen’s other motifs remains. Hands, for example, are one of the many things Voutilainen does well – and something that most established brands in the same segment overlook.

The TP1 pocket watch.

The hands are thick, vaulted, and specular polished, and tipped with heat-blued observatory-style rings. At first glance, the expected resplendent guilloche dial is apparently missing, dropped in favour of an open dial to display the painstaking movement decoration.

But flip the watch over and the familiar guilloche reveals itself – framing the keyless and (partial) motion works normally hidden under the dial. The case back also features a small seconds register so the excellent chronometric fundamentals won’t go unappreciated.

A worthy calibre

Voutilainen’s previous inverted movements were essentially an upside-down cal. 28; the latest generation rearranges the layout, giving the balance pride of place at roughly 12 o’clock. While the meticulous decoration pulls most of the attention, the movement is equally technically competent.

Inspired by vintage observatory movements, in particular those manufactured by Peseux, the calibre sports a proportionally massive 13.5 mm diameter balance on an overcoil hairspring. The hairspring itself benefits from both a Phillips exterior curve and a vanishingly rare Grossmann inner curve, meant to address the slight eccentricity of the hairspring where it meets the collet.

Also present is Voutilainen’s take on the natural escapement, which has now been in service for 15 years. This escapement has also been called upon for the recent Urban Jurgensen relaunch. Full-sized, solid rose gold train wheels link the escapement to the barrel, possibly with minor tribologic benefits over traditional brass or beryllium copper.

Key facts and price

Voutilainen KV20i Reversed CS

Case diameter: 39 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement:In-house Voutilainen movement with reversed architecture
Functions: Hours, minutes, and running seconds
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: From Voutilainen and retailers
Price: CHF133,800 excluding VAT

For more, visit Voutilainen.ch.