The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program.

The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples.

Initial Thoughts

Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person.

The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle.

Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant.

To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Personal program is much more significant than the new colour scheme. As with the original AUC and Andy Warhol, customers can customise the AUC Tourbillon through an online configurator.

Even brands known historically for building bespoke or custom watches now often shun simple personalisations on very expensive watches, because it gets in the way of efficient production processes.

Some brands, on the other hand, employ piece uniques as a carrot to sell off-the-rack watches, so Piaget’s approach is very welcome. It’s also worth mentioning that Piaget is owned by Richemont, like Vacheron Constantin, which has Les Cabinotiers that offers incredibly deep customisation.

The AUC Tourbillon (top) and Altiplano Ultimate 910P

Case and Calibre

As with most, though not all, super-thin watches in recent years, the AUC’s case doubles as a main plate for the movement, an approach pioneered by Jean Lassale and ETA, and also used in Audemars Piguet’s ref. 25643 self-winding tourbillon of 1986, which was the world’s thinnest tourbillon for many years.

In the AUC Tourbillon, the barrel and tourbillon cage are “flying” on both sides, instead supported from the side by ball bearings. While unusual, this approach isn’t entirely new to Piaget as the brand acquired movements and then intellectual property from Jean Lassale, which pioneered the use of a similar barrel construction as far back as the 1970s with its the manual-wind cal. 1200 (later known as the Piaget cal. 20P) and self-winding cal. 2000 (Piaget cal. 25P).

The tourbillon cage and barrel

Despite the ultra-flat construction, the AUC Tourbillon is almost a normal watch with co-axial hour and minute hands, and a running seconds by way of the tourbillon. While the time display appears small proportionally, it’s comparable to the Breguet Tradition or even the Little Lange 1.

The minimalist case is also quite conventional. The lugs turn down slightly to hug the wrist, which helps it wear less like a silver dollar than the original AUC that was a time-only.

It even has a crown, though Piaget sternly cautions against winding or setting the watch by hand, and provides a special tool instead. One departure is the case material, a cobalt alloy formulated for very thin, very rigid parts typically used in medical implants, not watch cases.

And a More Practical Alternative

As partner to the AUC Tourbillon, Piaget also rolled out a yellow gold Altiplano Ultimate 910P with matching Khaki Green Dial. While significantly thicker than the AUC Tourbillon at 4.3 mm, it’s a more practical – and much more affordable – option. It’s also self-winding, thanks to a peripheral rotor, and does not require special tools to wind or set.

The green PVD treatment is applied to the dial, and across the bridges and rotor for a cohesive look. Notably, the screws are also treated green.

And the keen-eyed enthusiast will notice a subtle upgrade to the calibre. For the first time, the cal. 910P is equipped with Piaget’s distinctive cross-head screws to match the crosshair dial, these screws were previously unique to the AUC Tourbillon.

Key facts and price

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon Khaki Green
Ref. G0A50530

Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 2 mm
Material: M64BC cobalt alloy
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: Cal. 970P-UC
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon cage 
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 35 hours

Strap: Calf leather with Kevlar®

Limited edition: No, but customisable
Availability: At Piaget boutiques and retailers
Price: Approximately CHF600,000

Piaget Altiplano 910P Khaki Green
Ref. G0A50126

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 4.3 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: Cal. 910P
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon cage 
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Green alligator leather with yellow gold pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Piaget boutiques and retailers
Price: US$41,300

For more, visit Piaget.com

This was brought to you in partnership with Piaget.