Louis Erard’s niche is making either watchmakers or techniques affordable – the Gravée Main is hand engraving priced accessibly. The watch is entirely engraved by hand, across the bezel, case, crown, and buckle, with a classical leaf motif by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine.

The resulting look is a blend of Gothic and Baroque, but the underlying watch retains the usual dimensions and movement of Louis Erard, while the dial is glossy black lacquer that evokes fired enamel.

Initial thoughts

I appreciate Louis Erard’s consistent focus on making interesting names or techniques affordable; its recent Damascus steel regulator being an example. Some micro-brands or one-man shops do the same for slightly less, particularly for certain decorative techniques, but without the finesse of Louis Erard. A good deal of credit for this goes to Manuel Emch, who oversees Louis Erard and lends his eye to the brand’s creations.

The Gravée Main sits squarely in the sweet spot where Louis Erard excels. Admittedly, the ornate look is not for everyone, some might even find it tacky. But I like it; the look is appealing and the execution shows attention to detail.

The tone-on-tone lacquered dial is a smart complement to the elaborate case. And that attention to detail is also evident in the engraving, which continues onto both the crown and buckle, which are sometimes overlooked.

Price-wise the Gravée Main is pricier than the typical Louis Erard limited edition, but still well priced for what it is. In fact, the Gravée Main is competitive with micro-brand offerings, underlining its value proposition.

Hand engraved

Translating as “hand engraved”, gravée main describes the watch succinctly. The decoration is the work of Maksym Shavlak, who is both watchmaker and engraver, but is only responsible for the engraved decoration of the Gravée Main.

The stainless steel case is the usual Louis Erard design in both size and style, but here it’s engraved on almost all surfaces. The bezel, case sides, lugs, and crown are engraved in relief with a leaf motif, as are the sides of the pin buckle.

Because the case is the standard Louis Erard size, it is a little large at 42 mm and over 12 mm high. But the dark colours should leave it looking a bit smaller than comparable watches with brighter dials.

While the case is over the top, the dial is almost minimalist with an all-black lacquered finish. It echoes the Gothic style of the case, but the lack of colour gives it a restrained aesthetic.

The only part of the case that is not hand engraved is the back, which is something of a missed opportunity. Even though the back doesn’t need decorative engraving, the lettering could have been applied by hand.

The sapphire window is tinted grey, so the movement is not entirely visible – but that’s not altogether a bad thing since the movement is a no-frills Sellita. It’s a good performer for a watch in this price range, but not something to admire visually.

Key Facts and Price

Louis Erard Gravée Main
Ref. 34237GA82.BVAG170

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.25 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: SW261-1
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calf leather with engraved pin buckle

Limited edition: 99 pieces
Availability: Direct from Louis Erard online
Price: CHF5,450 excluding taxes

For more, visit Louiserard.com.