Voutilainen Realises a Collector’s Dream, the 28 Kohan
A recently Finnished piece unique in maki-e.
Voutilainen recently completed a custom commission with the 28 Kohan, a one-off example of its signature chronometer wristwatch that blends Finnish cultural symbols with Japanese decorative arts. Much of the decoration on the watch is maki-e, traditional Japanese lacquer, that is the work of artisan Tatsuo Kitamura, a frequent collaborator who was also responsible for past Voutilainen maki-e timepieces.
Initial Thoughts
Unique pieces and commissioned watches were historically the norm at the highest end of the watch market, which was then much smaller. Clients could be more demanding, and for the watchmaker, the risk of being unable to find a buyer was very real.
Today off-the-rack watches dominate, largely for commercial and production reasons. Even brands with a long history of bespoke or custom watchmaking eschew custom dial colours. Some, however, keep the practice alive, like Vacheron Constantin with its Les Cabinotiers. Many independents also remain amenable to customisation, even established names that no longer need to, like Voutilainen, albeit with a long wait.
Bespoke watches are inherently difficult to criticise – such watches are a success as long as the commissioner is satisfied, even if it’s the most hideous thing ever. Fortunately that isn’t the case here, the adjective that comes to mind is bedazzling. I suspect maximalist designs are often common on Voutilainen’s custom watches because collectors want to make the most of the opportunity.
Some details are a bit on the nose, like the Finland or bear paw print engraving on the case. But, I appreciate the intimacy of some details, like the “trickling water” power reserve indicator – details that are very important to the owner but indecipherable from the outside looking in.
Transient Sky
On the dial, hundreds of piece of iridescent shell – namely great green turban and New Zealand abalone – and layers of urushi lacquer (a lacquering technique known as raden) form a portal to Lake Saimaa, the largest lake in Finland, during the autumn, paired with gold and platinum inserts, and spots of colourful lacquer. This explains the model name, ko-han, which is Japanese for “lakeside”.
At the top is a shifting sky that changes with the light. Under hard light the sky lightens and clouds appear, while under dim light the sky reveals a sea of stars. The sky is stationary, and changes with light; it is not a rotating 24-hour disk. According to the brand, the lacquer technique to achieve this effect is unique and proprietary to Mr Kitamura.
The daytime sky, visible under bright light.
The night sky, visible under dim light.
In Layers
The white gold case is typical Voutilainen fare with teardrop lugs, as are the observatory-style hands. But the case has been customised with a variety of Finnish emblems, inside and out. This starts with the oversized crown set with a granite cabochon (granite being the national stone of Finland) and continues on the hinged case back.
An engraved and enamelled seven-spot ladybug on a silver birch leaf – the national insect and tree of Finland respectively – adorn the case back’s outer face.
On the inside of the hinged back sit a pair of holly blue butterflies, the national butterfly of Finland, are framed by mother-of-pearl lilies of the valley, the country’s national flower.
The outer face of the hinged back (left), and the inner face
The Finnish references continue on the case back rim that features an engraved silhouette of the country, and a bear paw print engraved on one lug, representing the national animal of Finland.
The third and final layer of decoration is on the German-silver movement. A gold-speckled sea of red urushi lacquer fills the bridges, while deep-blue urushi and abalone shell silver birch leaves fill the ratchet wheel. One detail that only the commissioner will understand is the power reserve indicator that takes the form of a bottle labelled “Vichy” pouring water.
Decoration aside, the movement is Voutilainen’s workhorse 28 mm calibre with a massive, free-sprung balance beating at a stately 2.5 Hz on an overcoil hairspring, and double-wheel direct impulse escapement.
A high grade movement in even its most basic form, the cal. 28 has a solid gold going train and painstaking decoration. One interesting detail is the balance bridge, which flat and polished rather than barrel profiled as per usual, combined with an independent stud carrier.
Key facts and price
Voutilainen 28 Kohan Unique Piece
Case diameter: 37 mm
Height: 11.5 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m
Movement: Cal. 218RSV
Functions: Hours, minutes, and power reserve
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 65 hours
Strap: Green crocodile with pin buckle
Limited edition: Unique piece
Availability: Client commission, already sold
For more, visit Voutilainen.ch.
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