Having collaborated on several iterations of the affordable “Time Eater” regulator, Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin now close the chapter on the model with something more complicated. The Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin tells the time regulator style – retaining the trademark “eyeball” hours from the Russian independent’s Wristmon series – but inside the “mouth” is a one-minute tourbillon.

At CHF19,900, the Time Eater Tourbillon is pricier than the earlier time-only models, but still relatively accessible as such things go, thanks to a no-frills, but Swiss, tourbillon movement inside.

Initial thoughts

I liked the original Time Eater regulator because the design captures the Konstantin Chaykin style but makes it affordable at about a fifth of the price of a Wristmon. The Time Eater Tourbillon is less affordable, but still priced a little less than a Wristmon, so it is still a value proposition.

More broadly, it’s a good thing that Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are ending the Time Eater series. After three time-only regulator launches and this tourbillon, the concept has probably reached an optimal point of just enough and not overexploited.

Rolling eye whimsy

The Time Eater Tourbillon will be available in two variants: a green-accented model as pictured here that’s limited to 78 pieces, and one in blue that’s limited to 28. The former will be available from Louis Erard and its retailers, while the latter will only be sold by Konstantin Chaykin, namely at its Moscow boutique. Colour aside, both versions are identical.

The Time Eater Tourbillon is almost identical to the time-only version in terms of size. Entirely in polished steel, the case is the same 42 mm in diameter, but a little thicker at 12.65 mm.

The time-only model is already thick, and this is even chunkier, but the increase in thickness is forgivable given the extra complexity of the movement.

The dial also retains the same style as the time-only model. The dial is decorated with a stamped pattern, while a middle finger on the tip of the minute hand adds to the whimsy of the design.

As with the time-only model, seconds are indicated inside the “mouth” with sharp teeth at six o’clock, but here the seconds hand takes the form of a tongue that is mounted on the tourbillon carriage.

The movement inside is the BCP T02, the same calibre found in earlier Louis Erard tourbillon models. It’s also the same movement found in many Swiss tourbillon watches in this price segment. It’s made by BCP Tourbillons, a firm specialising in low-cost tourbillon movements that was founded by Olivier Mory, an engineering who worked at Sellita and ValFleurier.

The calibre is industrial, but competently executed, giving it a reasonably appealing aesthetic front and back. Though it’s straightforward in technical terms, the movement still manages a 100-hour power reserve, equivalent to four days.

Key facts and price

Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin
Ref. 89241AA90.BGA088 (green)
Ref. 89241AA91.BVA170 (blue)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.65 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: BCP T02
Features: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon with seconds hand
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 100 hours

Strap: Toad leather for green, calfskin for blue

Limited edition: 78 in green, and 28 in blue
Availability: Green model sold only at Louis Erard, and blue model only at Konstantin Chaykin
Price: CHF19,900 excluding taxes

For more information, visit louiserard.com.

A subtler version of its flagship model, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series looks almost like a time-only watch. It does away with the dial cutout for the tourbillon, leading to a more toned-down appearance for the complicated watch that combines a three-gong carillon repeater with a tourbillon. Notably, the new model is also available in a two-tone configuration of titanium and 18k rose gold.

Initial thoughts

Watchmakers usually highlight the tourbillon, putting the regulator front and centre of the dial (and charge a lot more for the mechanism too). Back in 2023, Biver made its debut with a tourbillon minute repeater,  which proudly displayed the tourbillon at six o’clock. Now the brand has reprised the model, but conceals what was the main showpiece on the dial.

The two models are delivered with a set of cufflinks, material-matched to the watch

The closed dial plainly conceals the tourbillon underneath. And due to the movement’s construction, the tourbillon can’t be seen from the case back either — making for a confusing sight. The end result is a very understated timepiece that doesn’t reveal itself easily, or much at all.

In fact, the apparent simplicity is underlined by the dial, which is almost identical to that of the time-only Automatique. It features the same brushed circular sectors and micro relief minute track have become staple design elements of the brand. Were it not for the repeater slide, one would even be tempted to assume this is indeed a new version of the Automatique. 

Apart from its misleading simplicity – which is arguably appealing in itself – the Carillon Tourbillon Signature is an appealing repeater that retains the key characteristics of the original model – high-grade finishing in a well-crafted movement and a great bracelet. With a five-link, faceted design bracelet is one of the highlights. It is both original and pairs well with the styling of the case and dial.

It does, however, share the dimensions of the original version, which leaves it a little larger and thicker than ideal for the classical design. And it is also priced similarly to the original, which means a price tag of almost CHF500,000.

We recently visited Biver’s workshop and left impressed by the young brand’s consistency and commitment to quality. Jean-Claude Biver’s experience with watchmaking is surely on display, finally under his own name and uninhibited by convention. 

Classic styling

Both the titanium and two-tone version are classically styled yet feature modern nuances. The case is executed to Biver standards, with sharp angular cuts to the lugs and a fairly large crown. The case finish is both brushed and polished, making for a well-rounded show of textures.

The independent’s take on the classic teardrop lug design is bold, with wide cuts and bevels replacing the smooth rounded surface of the original shape. These lugs are modelled on the vintage Patek Philippe ref. 1579 nicknamed “anse a ragno”, Italian for “spider lugs’.

The dial is an almost identical twin of the Automatique, with the same layered appearance and multiple finishes. The sharp indexes and minute track remain highlights of the watch face, with the minute track featuring both a finely grained backdrop and numerals in relief.

Although the dial looks all but identical to the Automatique, the hands of the two models differ; the Signature Series lacks a centre seconds hand.

Two versions

This model launches in two versions: one entirely in titanium and the other in two-tone titanium and 18k rose gold.

While the monochromatic titanium version is handsome, it is the two tone model that carries the most appeal. The darker shade of titanium pairs well with the brightness of the rose gold accents.

Both cases measure 42 mm in diameter and have a reasonable thickness of 13.7 mm. The lug width is an odd 21.3 mm, but given the quality of the bracelet, the owner probably won’t be tempted to search for a different strap. 

Now one of the trademark features of the brand, the bracelet is executed well. It has a jewel-like quality, since each link is polished, angled and original in design. There is also an extension mechanism at the clasp, a thoughtful addition that makes for a more comfortable wearing experience.

A complex movement

The latest Carillon Tourbillon retains the same movement found in the original 2023 model. Made by Le Cercle des Horlogers, the JCB-001-B beats at 3 Hz and runs for 72 hours.

This version is by all means identical to the original JCB-001, with the exception of the absent small seconds hand on the tourbillon cage.

The tourbillon assembly is fully concealed under the movement layers, with the platinum micro rotor obscuring its view from the back. This gives the calibre a static appearance, which is the opposite of a conventional tourbillon movement.

The view changes when the repeater slide is actuated and the strikework springs to life. The watch is a carillon repeater, meaning it has three gongs instead of the usual two. This makes for a more layered sound and also adds a degree of complexity to an already complicated movement. 

Biver again applied its reinterpretation of classic finishing, doing away with classic Geneva waves and instead opting for a mix of coarse frosted bridges and mirror polished steel parts. The movement finishing is lavish, with sharp angles on all components, gold settings for the jewels, and an abundance of black polishing. 

The steel bridges holding the micro rotor and governor, along with the wide hammers and screw heads, are all black polished. A pleasing contrasting touch is the brushing on the governor arm, which creates a visual break amidst all the black polishing. 

Key facts and price

Biver Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.7 mm
Material: Titanium or titanium and 18K rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: JCB.001-B
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon, and minute repeater
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Matching titanium or two-tone five-link bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: From Biver and authorised retailers
Price: CHF475,000 before taxes

For more, visit jcbiver.com.