Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals.

Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic.

Initial thoughts

Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand.

Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries).

Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come.

Two time zones

One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combination of twin hour hands and a rotating 24-hour bezel. The local time hour hand is independently adjustable, making it a “true” GMT that is easy and quick to set.

The new model has all of the key elements of the modern GMT-Master II, including a two-colour ceramic bezel insert and cal. 3285 movement. The only difference between this and past models is the Cerachrom dial.

According to Rolex, the Cerachrom dial is constructed exactly like a precious stone dial – a thin slice of ceramic is mounted on a brass dial base and secured with adhesive. The base is necessary to give the dial strength without compromising the slimness.

Before it is mounted on the base, the ceramic is cut thinly then lapped to give it a mirrored surface. As with other Rolex dials, the indices are applied and all solid gold.

Key facts and price

Rolex GMT-Master II
Ref. 126729 VTNR

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 11.9 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and GMT
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet in 18k white gold

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex boutiques and retailers starting April 2024
Price: US$46,750 before taxes

For more, visit Rolex.com.