Having launched the Automatique last year in a range of metals except yellow gold, Biver has now revealed a pair in the classic precious metal. The Automatique in yellow gold debuts with a matching solid yellow gold dial or a more unusual dial in glossy, woven carbon fibre composite.

Initial thoughts

I was already a proponent of the Automatique, mainly because of the high quality of construction inside and out. The yellow gold duo add more options to the offering, but arguably bring more than just a new colour because the material evokes a vintage feel that suits the design. Between rose and yellow gold, I would pick the latter.

The carbon dial version is interesting because it brings to mind the era of the 1990s when woven carbon fibre was a thing. The novelty of the material has since been supplanted by more exotic carbon composites, but the retro feel of the carbon dial is appealing. Moreover, it brings to mind the black-and-gold livery of John Player Special Formula 1 cars, which is precisely the point of this version according to Biver chief executive James Marks.

Both versions are priced identically to their equivalents in the standard and Atelier Series. That’s fair enough but the carbon should be priced a little lower since the other Atelier models have mineral stone or fired enamel dials, which are typically costlier and harder to work than carbon fibre.

The original colour of gold

The new Automatique retains all of the features of the earlier versions, including the “spider” lugs, except it’s now in yellow gold.

The standard version is almost entirely yellow gold – the case, dial, hands, and hour markers are all 18k yellow gold, though the hands and markers are black coated for legibility.

The Atelier Series Carbon Edition is similarly kitted out in yellow gold, but the gold dial incorporates carbon fibre composite inlays. The inlays are made up of woven carbon fibre in a clear polymer and polished for a glossy finish that allows the carbon to catch the light nicely.

Both models are powered by the JCB-003, which is perhaps the best trait of the Automatique. Developed by Dubois Dépraz for Biver, the JCB-003 is a micro-rotor automatic with an elaborate construction that is as much visual as it is functional.

Key facts and price

Biver Automatique

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10 mm
Material: 18K yellow gold gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 80 m

Movement: JCB-003
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Leather with 18k gold buckle, or five-row Biver bracelet in yellow gold

Limited edition: No, but limited quantities for the Atelier Series
Availability: Direct from Biver or at authorised retailers
Price: CHF75,000 in yellow gold; CHF89,000 with carbon dial (prices exclude taxes)

For more, visit jcbiver.com.

A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old.

Initial thoughts

Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821.

Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce.

The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet

With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior.

Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an old-school chronograph.

A pleasing dial

The 1816 measures a moderate 40.6 mm in diameter, but is 14.7 mm tall, which is thick. The watch probably wears larger than it measures, since the elongated lugs don’t allow the integrated bracelet to “hug” smaller wrists. Both the case and bracelet are in grade 5 titanium, with both polished and satin-brushed surfaces.

While the case and integrated bracelet fall a little short in terms of aesthetics, the dial is one of the 1816’s best traits, movement aside. The layout is faithful to Moinet’s thirds counter, with the running seconds and instant minute counter above the central hands. 

The dial also includes two pairs of blued screws that secure it to the base plate, replicating a detail from 1816 counter. The squared typography, circular brushing of the chapter rings on the registers, and frosted texture make for an appealing face. Although clearly modern, it resembles pocket watch dials crafted in the 19th century. 

An “in-house” movement

Experienced watchmakers and constructors tend to agree that developing a chronograph movement is among the more difficult endeavours. In-house chronograph movements are a mark of quality, but also require effort and investment. Louis Moinet turned to its longtime supplier Concepto, a movement specialist, for the LM1816 calibre.

The LM1816 movement is a manual wind calibre with lateral clutch, and column wheel, running at 4 Hz for about 48 hours on a full wind. While clearly modern, the movement draws inspiration from vintage calibres, even appearing to borrow from some in terms of architecture. This is not surprising as Concepto has historically worked with existing chronograph constructions to create a variety of new movements.

The LM1816 includes an uncommon feature in the form of a jumping elapsed minute counter, driven by a snail cam and jumper mechanism. This is a feature usually found in high-end chronographs, like the Lange Datograph L951 or Patek Philippe 29-535 PS. An interesting detail is the adjustable jumping finger, which allows the watchmaker to tweak the tension that’s exerted on the minutes wheel to perfect the motion of the jumping minute hand.

Interestingly, due to the dial layout, the running seconds indication has to be relayed underneath the escapement and balance assembly in order to be displayed in the counter at ten o’clock.

While the screwed balance is not free-sprung, it employs a swan’s neck regulator for securing the raquette

The movement’s decoration is simple. The bridges are in a finely-grained gilt frosting that brings to mind old French and English pocket watch movements, while the edges are bevelled (by CNC milling it seems). The many steel levers are brushed and most of the screws are polished, while some are blued. 

All in all, the LM1816 is one of the more interesting chronograph movements on the market lately.

Key Facts and Price

Louis Moinet 1816
Ref. LM-150.20.60

Diameter: 40.6 mm
Height: 14.7 mm
Material: Grade 5 titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: LM1816
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds and chronograph
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Integrated grade 5 titanium bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Louis Moinet retailers
Price: Approximately US$35,000

For more, visit louismoinet.com