Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre continue their journey of independent horology with the Biver Automatique Japan Edition. Made in collaboration with its retailer in Japan, this special release is based on the time-only automatic debuted last year, but reimagined to cater to the traditionally classical taste of the Japanese collector.

The minimalist edition debuts in two elegant variants that explore the contrast of light and shadow through hard-fired enamel made by an enamel workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. A stark white enamel dial is paired with a platinum case, while the high-contrast version matches a glossy black dial with a rose gold case – both share a clean, old-school aesthetic with applied markers and a railway minute track.

A tribute to the Japanese collector

The Automatique epitomises Biver’s neoclassical and elaborate approach to watchmaking, which blends careful detailing with hand-finishing techniques, for both habillage and the movement. Now the Japan Edition further refines the approach, condensing the more elaborate execution of the original versions into something more traditional, more classical, and arguably more reflective of the taste of Japanese enthusiasts.

The two distinct models pay homage to the Japanese appreciation of minimalist aesthetics combined with high quality and precision execution, along with a well-established love of mid-century precision Swiss wristwatches. The clarity of the vintage-inspired design makes the Japan Edition appealing, especially for a purist who finds the original versions a bit too fanciful.

Added appeal comes from the fact that the dials are made by a respected enamel workshop in Geneva that also supplies other notable independent brands. The dials also underline the attention to detail found through the Automatique – the fired enamel dials feature solid gold applied markers secured with rivets, a detail almost never found on enamel dials due to the difficult of attaching indices to enamel.

Art of Enamel

The angular case of the Automatique is retained, as is the JCB-003 movement – both executed to the same high standards – but the Japan Edition stands out for its grand feu enamel dial.

While the combinations of black or white enamel with rose gold or platinum respectively are familiar, they aren’t arbitrary. The palette is rooted in Japanese design principles, where black and white symbolise balance and the interplay of opposites.

“Japan has always been a source of inspiration for me,” says founder and industry legend Jean-Claude Biver, “The country’s collectors have a profound appreciation for detail and perfection, which has left an indelible mark on my approach to watchmaking.”

“Black and white dials are a meeting point between Japanese aesthetics and classical watchmaking,” adds Pierre Biver, “They are both traditional and modern, allowing us to create something timeless yet distinctly Biver.”

The Japan Edition is Biver’s second foray into enamel dials, after the unique watch with an abstract enamel dial for charity. These dials are crafted using traditional techniques by Les Émailleurs de la Cité, a recently established but fast-rising specialist in high-end enamelwork located in the oldest part of Geneva.

Each dial starts off as either a 22k rose gold or 18k white gold disc before being painted by hand with liquid enamel and then fired at about 800°C. The painstaking process requires over 10 hours of repeated and precise application of enamel and firing, followed by some additional six hours of polishing by hand that achieves the glassy sheen.

Affixing the 18k gold hour markers to the enamel posed a significant challenge, as drilling holes through enamel for the rivets of each markers risks cracking the fragile surface of the enamel. The artful solution was a dozen tiny rectangular areas left free of enamel, allowing the indices to be anchored directly onto the gold base. 

This results in a seamless integration of applied markers onto the dial surface — all executed with great precision. The dial design remains otherwise classical, with a thick railroad minute track and the brand name, all printed in enamel naturally.

The remarkable movement 

Powering the Japan Edition is Biver’s excellent micro-rotor movement, the JCB-003, which is also found in the other iterations in the Automatique collection. 

The 3.5 Hz movement is both technically and aesthetically impressive, with prominent engine turning covering the upper bridges that are further accented with wide anglage and countersinks. Running for about 65 hours on a full wind, the JCB-003 is equipped with hacking, zero-reset seconds (a mechanism better detailed here) and a free-sprung balance wheel. 

And it’s worth reading our in-depth look at the Automatique detailing the quality and overall refinement of the execution.

Key facts and price

Biver Automatique Japan Edition

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10 mm
Material: Platinum or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 80 m

Movement: JCB-003
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Grey or black alligator nubuck leather, with platinum or rose gold pin buckle (folding clasps available on request)

Limited edition: Limited production
Availability: Only at The Hour Glass Japan
Price: CHF92,ooo in platinum and CHF89,000 in rose gold (before taxes)

For more, visit jcbiver.com.