A refined addition to H. Moser & Cie.’s line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage of a wide “V” containing double hairsprings for superior chronometry.

Initial thoughts

The Streamliner remains the most recognisable model in Moser’s lineup, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal. Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead a cross between a sports and dress watch.

Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance (and is delivered with a green rubber strap).

Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record.

Burgundy gradient

A standout feature is the fumé dial that’s made up of black and burgundy treatment over a sun ray-brushed surface. The applied indices and hands match the red gold case, complemented by relatively subtle luminous accents.

An aperture at six o’clock reveals the one-minute flying tourbillon with a double Straumann hairspring – produced by Moser’s sister company – which breathes more concentrically thus improving accuracy and isochronism. Like Moser’s other top-of-the-line movements, this has a tourbillon regulator that’s configured as an interchangeable module, simplifying servicing and maintenance since the regulator can be swapped during servicing.

The watch is powered by the self-winding cal. HMC 805, which beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers three days of power reserve.

It’s the latest generation of Moser’s in-house tourbillon calibre and features open-worked bridges that reveal more of the underlying mechanics,accentuated by a contemporary grey finish that Moser applies to the movements in its sports watches, but the calibre still retains traditional Moser elements, like the double stripes on the bridges and an engraved coat of arms.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy
Ref. 3805-0400

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: 5N red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 805
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: Green rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. retailers and online boutique
Price: CHF59,900

For more, visit h-moser.com.