A refined addition to the Pioneer line of sporty dress watches, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy, is distinguished by a more compact 40 mm case. The look is classic Moser with the signature fumé dial adorned with an imperceptible logo in transparent print. More prominent is the flying tourbillon at six o’clock with the trademark Moser carriage.

Initial thoughts

In H. Moser & Cie.’s lineup, the Streamliner remains the most recognisable, even as the popularity of integrated bracelet sports watches wanes. Meanwhile, the Pioneer is often overlooked by collectors, making it somewhat underrated despite its appeal.

Personally, I like the Pioneer for its sporty design, even though it isn’t a traditional sports watch and instead of a blend of sports and dress.

Departing from its predecessor’s substantial 42.8 mm case, the new model is more wearable. It leans more towards the dress watch side of the spectrum with its smaller case, but still has a 120 m water resistance.

Priced at CHF59,900, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a value proposition in terms of tourbillons from an independent watchmaker. A steel version would be sportier and more affordable, and while that’s not on the cards yet, it is probably on the way given Moser’s track record.

Burgundy dial

A standout feature is the burgundy fumé dial, enhanced by a sunray-brushed pattern. The applied indices and hands echo the red gold case, complemented by luminescent accents. At six o’clock, an aperture opening reveals the one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring, which improves accuracy and isochronism. The tourbillon is configured as an interchangeable module, simplifying servicing and maintenance.

Powering the watch is the in-house self-winding cal. HMC 805. Its openworked bridges reveal more of the underlying mechanics, accentuated by a contemporary anthracite-grey finish with Moser’s double stripes and a skeletonized 18k gold rotor. The movement beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers 3 days of power reserve.

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy
Ref. 3805-0400

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: 5N red gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 805
Functions: Hours, minutes, and flying tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: Green rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at H. Moser & Cie. retailers and online boutique
Price: CHF59,900

For more, visit h-moser.com.