Hermès’ myriad interpretations of its signature motif ranges from the comic to the complicated. The Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé, on the other hand, is elegantly abstract. Retaining the familiar 39.5 mm case design of the “Slim” model, this features a meticulously handcrafted dial depicting a stylised horse rendered in brushstrokes.

Unusually, the “Cheval Brossé” dial is the result of both artisanal and mechanical techniques: the base is traditional, hand-made grand feu enamel, while the horse is pad printed in multiple runs for each colour.

Initial thoughts

While the equestrian motif is repeated often, the versatility and creativity of Hermès’ design department allows the theme to stay fresh. The Cheval Brossé illustrates this: while the horse is recognisably Hermès in form and flavour, it is still striking different from prior models.

Compared to several of Hermès’ other métiers d’art watches that tend to be more elaborate, the Cheval Brossé – French for “brushed horse” – possesses an understated aesthetic with its abstractly rendered horse set against the pristine blue enamel dial. Though the dial is simple, the “brushstrokes” that make up the horse give the dial a surprising degree of motion.

The combination of enamel and pad printing, while not unique, is uncommon. Though this means the dial doesn’t boast the full-fledged artisanal craft, it certainly makes the watch more affordable.

Sky blue enamel

As is typical for a metiers d’art watch, the focal point of the Cheval Brossé is the dial. The base is fired enamel done the traditional way. Finely-ground colored glass powder is mixed with oil, then painted on the dial by hand. The dial is then fired to create its vivid hue.

The horse motif is printed onto the dial with the conventional pad and plate method, one colour at a time.

Powering the watch is the ultra-thin, self-winding cal. H1950, a micro-rotor calibre made by Vaucher that’s been customised for Hermes. It beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and offers 48 hours of power reserve.

Key facts and price

Hermès Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé

Case diameter: 39.5 mm
Height: 7.5 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: H1950
Functions: Hours and minutes
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 24 pieces 
Availability: At Hermes boutiques and retailers
Price:

For more, visit Hermes.com.

Hublot has taken the covers off the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, which the brand says is the world’s first timepiece to incorporate multi-coloured ceramic. While the case is fashioned from black ceramic, the standout feature is a bezel crafted in grey and blue ceramic, or more specifically, a dark grey ceramic base spotted with blue circles.

Though the technical details of the two-colour ceramic are scarce at the moment – the patent is still pending according to Hublot – it appears the unique characteristic of the material lies in the fact that it is ceramic that has been coloured with two distinct pigments, as opposed to a single colour ceramic with an additional colour added.

Initial thoughts

For all of the criticism levelled at Hublot, the brand undeniably does well in materials innovation. Amongst its proprietary materials is Magic Gold, a gold-ceramic composite that was the first scratch-proof 18k yellow gold alloy. The Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic underscores this focus on materials. Granted, the watch isn’t for everyone.

I find the weird, spotty bezel unappealing, but the potential of the material and technology behind it is certainly interesting, especially if applied in a more stylish manner. The material is likely still experimental, since the new Big Bang is a limited edition of just 20 pieces with a hefty price tag of US$33,000, so it might take some time to see it deployed on a wider basis beyond the bezel.

Magic Ceramic

Apart from the bezel, the new edition is identical to the standard Big Bang Unico, retaining the familiar 42 mm by 14.5 mm case with a multi-part, multi-material construction. Under the spotty ceramic bezel is a black ceramic case, with a black resin insert forming the “ears” that distinguish the Hublot porthole-style case.

The watch is driven by the HUB1280, an in-house movement with a flyback chronograph. The movement construction is modular, leaving the chronograph mechanism to the visible on the dial, with the column wheel visible at six o’clock. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz), the HUB1280 delivers a power reserve of three days.

Key facts and price

Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic
Ref. 441.CIB.1171.RX

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.5 mm
Material: Black ceramic with multicoloured ceramic bezel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. HUB1280
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and flyback chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per second (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 3 days

Strap: Black rubber strap

Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: Now at Hublot boutiques
Price: US$33,000

For more, visit hublot.com