Hands On: Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion

Streamlined, with a twist.

As Urwerk has matured as a brand, its products have evolved to become more wearable. The recently launched UR-150 Scorpion embodies this evolution. The UR-150 incorporates the familiar Urwerk time display – but with a retrograde twist – but in a sleeker, curved case that hugs the wrist.

Initial thoughts

The UR-150 continues the emphasis on wearability established by the compact UR-100. The UR-150 is bigger and bolder, but despite its size, the curved case profile allows it to sit well on the wrist. This contrasts with many of Urwerk’s past models, which tended to have wide, flat case backs that were less ergonomic.

The curved case also looks good, especially since it continues the line of the domed sapphire crystal. This design moderates the hyper-mechanical aesthetic of many Urwerk models, leaving the UR-150 a little more elegant, albeit in a war machine-like way.

In some ways, the UR-150 seems descended from the UR-100. It has a similar tonneau shape, but more streamlined. And it has the signature satellite disc wandering hours, but enhanced with a retrograde minute hand (that’s no doubt borrowed from the UR-210/220/230).

The combination of the retrograde minutes with the satellite disc display is notable for Urwerk as the brand historically kept this time display on its simpler watches, while the top-of-the-line satellite cube display was accompanied by the retrograde indicator. This leaves the UR-150 as something of a bridge between two distinct lines of the brand.

The in-between position of the UR-150 is underlined by the price, which is in-between the UR-100 and UR-220. It’s priced fairly relative to other Urwerk models, but the added retrograde minutes might not be enough of a difference for the casual buyer, who is probably best served by the entry-level UR-100.

While the UR-150 is appealing intrinsically, it does create overlap and thus confusion in the Urwerk model line. This is something faced by all watch brands that mature and grow their offerings, but given the highly-technical nature of Urwerk’s creations, the overlap might diminish the appeal of the higher-end models.

Tonneau spaceship

The UR-150 is essentially an extra-large tonneau-shaped watch. The case measures 42.49 mm by 52.3 1mm and stands 14.79 mm, so it is large, but not crazily so by Urwerk standards.

As is often the case with Urwerk, the case is in a combination of metals, steel on the front and titanium for the back. It is not too heavy (but nowhere near as lightweight as the composite UR-230 Polaris), though I imagine an all-gold version would be unwieldy.

The UR-150 makes its debut in two versions, Titan that is finished in dark grey, and Dark that is almost black. I prefer Titan as the lighter shade shows off the case details better.

The UR-150 Titan is accented in green. Image – Urwerk

The sleek form of the case sets this apart from most Urwerk watches, and it also reflects the tremendous advances that Urwerk has made with its case production techniques. The case is not only beautifully curved, but also sports details like bevelled edges (that are milled of course).

Like the UR-100, the UR-150 has a conventional round dial. But the time display under the highly domed crystal is anything but conventional. Three discs form the wandering hours mechanism, while the minutes are indicated by a red-tipped retrograde hand.

Urwerk added a retrograde minutes to the satellite cube display some two decades ago, and the complication has been refined over the years. Here the retrograde scale is unusually wide, spanning almost 240 degrees, or about two-thirds of the dial circumference.

The dial is generously lumed. Image – Urwerk

Besides the aesthetic appealing of the wide minute scale, the mechanism is slightly more difficult to execute than a conventional retrograde indicator with an acute angle scale so it’s a nice tough.

Both the retrograde hand and carousel that carries the discs are open worked to reveal the mechanics below. Although there are only a handful of parts visible, there is still quite a lot to see, reflecting the complexity of the hour-and-minute display. Amongst other things, the retrograde employs a spring to drive its motion and a flywheel to regulate the speed of the jump.

“We have designed a new satellite complication system… based around a flying wheel and pinion positioned between the satellites and the base movement… [that] deciphers and follows the ‘guiding thread’ of a cam,” explains Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner, “This necessitated developing a spring so special that we needed to machine it in our own workshop. To make this burst of movement more visible, we have doubled the usual distance between the 60 and 0 markers.”

The disassembled display module. Image – Urwerk

The view from the back is complex as well. The open back reveals the automatic winding mechanism with “twin turbines”, basically a pair of gears that regulate the speed of the rotor to optimise winding, at least in theory. While I am unsure if the turbines genuinely enhance winding, they are perfect complements for a watch like this.

While I do like embellishments like the turbines that have some mechanical aspect to them, I would like to do away with the purely stylistic add-ons. These include the Urwerk logo embossed on the lower right nut of the case, and also the “set time” label engraved just under the crown.


Key facts and price

Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion

Case dimensions: 42.49 mm by 52.3 1mm
Height: 14.79 mm
Material: Steel and titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UR-50.01
Features: Satellite hours, minutes
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 43 hours

Strap: Rubber strap

Limited edition: 50 pieces each for Titan and Dark
Availability:
Now at Urwerk retailers
Price: CHF88,000 for Titan, CHF89,000 for Dark (excluding taxes)

For more, visit Urwerk.com.


 

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Bovet Introduces Retrograde Perpetual with Sapphire Dial

The Récital 21.

Bovet’s latest creation, the Récital 21, is a perpetual calendar with retrograde date presented in a modern style. The large, 44.4 mm titanium case contains tinted sapphire dial that reveals the calendar mechanism with twist: the retrograde date hand is damped so it gradually returns to the origin rather than jumping instantaneously.

Initial thoughts

Bovet is best known for its large complications, some of which are elaborately and intricately styled. The Récital 21 is classic Bovet, but in a slightly more approachable format. It’s a complicated watch but in a more contemporary package, especially with the sapphire dial and luminous markings. The case is (slightly) more wearable, though it has the signature sloped “writing desk” case, which is not for everyone but distinctive nonetheless.

As is typical for Bovet, the movement is in-house and impressively spec’ed. Notably, it incorporates the patented co-axial double seconds (that’s visible on the front and back), and a five-day power reserve.

Sapphire dial

The polished titanium case is 44.4 mm in diameter. In the usual Bovet style, the case slopes downwards from 12 to six o’clock, hence the “writing desk” nickname. Though large, it has short lugs for wearability.

Offered in green, blue, or brown tint, the sapphire crystal dial reveals the calendar module that’s enhanced by a damping mechanism that deliberately slows the date hand during its return.

All of the calendar indications can be adjusted via dedicated pushers, but the case includes an all-in-one pusher on the left of the case that simultaneously advances all the calendar indicators for convenient setting.

The watch is driven by the in-house 13DM05-QPR, a manual-winding movement with a five-day power reserve indicator.


Key facts and price

Bovet Récital 21

Diameter: 44.4 mm
Height: 15.40mm (12h) & 10.25mm (6h)
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 13DM05-QPR
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde date and perpetual calendar with leap year indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per second (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 140 hours

Strap: Shiny green, blue, or brown alligator strap with polished titanium ardillon buckle

Limited edition: 60 pieces per colour
Availability: Now at Bovet boutiques
Price: Upon request

For more, visit bovet.com


 

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