Two years ago Hublot introduced mineral stone dials for the first time and now the brand has returned to Earth’s rare natural stones – and one from elsewhere in the galaxy – with the Classic Fusion Elements II.

As with the first edition, the Elements II is a limited edition for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass made up of five different models, each sporting a dial of mineral stone: pink jasper, sodalite, nephrite jade, turquoise, and lunar meteorite.

The Elements II is based on Hublot’s signature time-only watch, a minimalist design with the trademark porthole-shaped bezel and case. With just three hands and no date, plus the Hublot logo in gold-powder print, the dial is a blank slate that allows the grain of each mineral stone to stand out.

Turquoise

Initial thoughts

Hublot does two things well, the minimalist, classic Hublot, and artist collaborations, particularly the recent Daniel Arsham and earlier Takashi Murakami. The Elements II is essentially a classic Hublot with a mineral stone dial free of any markings save for the brand logo in gilt print. The clean aesthetic of the dial is maximised to show off the natural graining of various mineral stones.

The case is unusual for being entirely in polished titanium, and also two-tone thanks to 18k gold accents, but it’s a perfect complement to the colours of the mineral stone dials.

Lunar meteorite

This might seem surprising given the clean styling of the watch, but the stone dials would have arguably been even more striking in the full-size, 45 mm Classic Fusion instead of the 42 mm as it is now.

A larger case would also have resulted in a wider space for the mineral stone dials. At the same time, the 45 mm model has slightly  more elegant proportions – it feels thinner because the case thickness is similar but the case is wider.

Pink jasper

From Earth and the cosmos

Each of the stone dials – pink jasper, sodalite, nephrite jade, turquoise, and lunar meteorite – vary in appearance (and price). At a distance, the nephrite appears to be an almost-uniform forest green, but reveals a fine graining up close.

The nephrite jade model

Up close the nephrite jade dial reveals both texture and shading

The turquoise and sodalite dials, on the other hand, reveal prominent veining that gives them a distinctive look that is synonymous with mineral stone.

Sodalite

The priciest of the Elements II is the lunar meteorite. This is unusual as it is made from a different type of meteorite than most watch dials.

Majority of meteorite watch dials are made of iron meteorite, essentially an alloy of iron and nickel, that originate from asteroids. The large Gibeon meteorite that landed in what is now Namibia is most often used for watch dials, simply because supply is plentiful.

Lunar meteorites, in contrast, are meteorites that come from the moon. These are typically rock, explaining the mineral-like appearance of the Elements II with a meteorite dial, instead of the familiar streaky graining of an ironmeteorite dial.

The lunar meteorite dial

Like the preceding editions, the Elements II uses the mid-size Classic Fusion case that’s a handy 42 mm wide and 10.4 mm. It’s a compact size that’s easy to wear, but it looks slightly smaller than it is, perhaps because Hublot watches are generally large.

Unusually, the case is almost entirely polished titanium, an unusual finish for the model, which typically employs both matte brushing and mirror polishing. The polished titanium is matched with 18k gold for the screws, crown, and under-bezel for a two-tone effect.

Sodalite

The only part of the case that is polished is the back. Notably, the case back is secured with gold screws as well, reflecting the attention to detail in the design. The open back reveals the HUB1112, which is a Sellita SW300-1 dressed up with an open-worked rotor. A watch like this deserves a more sophisticated calibre, and that will come with time as it is known that Hublot has an in-house automatic in the works.

Key facts and price

Hublot Classic Fusion 42 mm Elements II
Ref. 542.NX.6280.LR.THG (Pink jasper)
Ref. 542.NX.5180.LR.THG (Sodalite)
Ref. 542.NX.5280.LR.THG (Nephrite jade)
Ref. 542.NX.6380.LR.THG (Turquoise)
Ref. 542.NX.5580.LR.THG (Lunar meteorite)

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.4 mm
Material: Titanium and 18k gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: HUB1112 (Sellita SW300-1)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Alligator covered rubber with folding clasp

Limited edition: 10 pieces in each dial variation
Availability: At The Hour Glass stores in Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam
Price: (Including Singapore taxes)
Jasper, and Sodalite – 31,700 Singapore dollars, or about US$24,500
Nephrite Jade – 32,400 Singapore dollars, or about US$25,100
Turquoise – 34,800 Singapore dollars, or about US$26,900
Lunar Meteorite – 43,200 Singapore dollars, or about US$33,500

For more, visit thehourglass.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with The Hour Glass.

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) debuts the revamped Duometre line earlier this year, including the Duometre Chronograph Moon (and the entry-level Quantieme Lunaire). The watch incorporates almost every possible complication, some clever and others barely related, to create a chronograph that incudes a host of other simple functions, ranging from a day-night indicator to twin power reserves.

Traditionally, the Duometre was centred on the chronograph, which makes this the line’s flagship model. It’s essentially an evolution of the first-generation model, retaining a chronograph mechanism that is compact and clever, but gains additional complications that feel extraneous.

The platinum model gets a copper or “salmon” dial

Initial thoughts

The Duometre Chronograph Moon reflects many of JLC’s strengths, particularly as a movement maker. The movement inside is the sophisticated cal. 391 that makes logical use of the two-train construction to power a smartly designed chronograph mechanism.

Visually, the movement is appealing and boasts quality, workmanlike finishing with details like a free-sprung balance and grande sonnerie-style winding clicks. Although it is industrial haute horlogerie, the calibre is clearly best in class.

The cal. 391

Both barrels each sport grande sonnerie-style winding clicks

But the cal. 391 is nearly identical to the cal. 380 found in the first-generation Duometre introduced in 2007. While it is an accomplished movement, the cal. 391 is hardly novel. Instead it tries to be different by adding simple complications to the chronograph, namely the moon phase and day-night indicator.

These complications add colour to the dial and make the watch seem more complex, but they are mechanically straightforward add-ons that are easy to execute, while also having little relevance to the chronograph. The apertures on the dial further add to the feeling of unnecessary busyness. Leaving out the additional complications would have made the Duometre Chronograph Moon would have been more coherent conceptually and cleaner visually.

Day-night on the left sub-dial, and moon phase on the right

A storied manufacture like JLC shouldn’t need to add minor complications to an excellent movement for the sake of freshness. Last year’s flagship launch, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, just repurposed an excellent but 27-year old calibre. The brand used to describe itself as manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre (MJLC), so one expects more.

That said, the cal. 391 is a beautiful and worth revisiting. But it could have been revisited either as a dated but still appealing movement without adding inessential functions, or with substantive improvements.

In its original, long-ago iteration, the Duometre Chronograph offered a surprisingly intricate and clever chronograph movement for a competitive price, but that was almost 20 years ago.

Today the Duometre Chronograph Moon costs US$70,000 in pink gold and US$88,000 in platinum. In comparison, the Lange 1815 Chronograph is a bit over US$78,000 in gold, while the Patek Philippe ref. 5172G is US$85,900. This reflects JLC as a whole moving up in the price spectrum, which diminishes the value proposition and makes it harder to compete.

While the Duometre offers more in terms of complexity and functions than the 1815 and ref. 5172G, it doesn’t have the same level of refinement in movement decoration or details, and JLC doesn’t have the cachet of Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Söhne. As the result, even though the Duometre is executed well in many ways, it offers modest value at best.

A compact chronograph

The case of the Duometre chronograph is almost identical to the Quantieme Lunaire we reviewed recently, so it holds the same appeal. It’s a large case at 42.5 mm by 14.2 mm, but one with good proportions. The size feels appropriate for the complications and movement, so the dimensions are coherent.

It has a clear vintage-inspired style thanks to the domed dial and crystal, but the detailing on the case sides are a modern touch. The recessed frosting on the lugs are a little like the apertures on the dial – they add detail but necessarily.

The Duometre Chronograph Moon is only available in pink gold or platinum for now, and both versions are identical save for case material and dial colour.

At first glance the copper (or salmon) dial of the platinum is more striking, but the colour is overused today, leaving this version feeling a bit fashionable. The pink gold model has a classic, almost boring silvered dial, but it works.

The Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum (left) and pink gold

Even though the Duometre Chronograph Moon has multiple functions, they are individually relatively simple. But the dial is complex and packed with indicators – not necessarily a good thing since some of the complications aren’t substantive. That said, legibility is surprisingly good despite everything that is on the dial.

As is tradition for the Duometre thanks to its “Dual Wing” movement with two trains, the dial is nearly symmetrical, with each half containing the indicators driven by each going train.

The left register indicates the time as well as day and night, while the right register contains the elapsed hours and minutes along with the moon phase.

The sub-dial at six is for the lightning seconds of the chronographs that measures 1/6th of a second, while the elapsed seconds is on the central blued hand. On either side of the lightning seconds are the power reserve indicators for the timekeeping and chronograph trains.

Save for minor tweaks to the scales and excess text, the dial design is well done – but for the twin apertures for the power reserves. These became a standard feature of the Duometre as the model range evolved over the years and have been carried over into the new generation.

The rationale for the wing-shaped apertures is the “Dual Wing” movement and also to add mechanical interest to the dial. But they don’t bring value in terms of design while also throwing the dial off balance. The Quantieme Lunaire omits the apertures and it consequently has a cleaner dial with visual equilibrium.

That said, I can imagine some will like the apertures, as well as the moon phase and day-night displays, for the extra detail they bring to the dial that would otherwise be functional and full of various scales.

Dual Wing

Strictly speaking, the cal. 391 in the Duometre Chronograph Moon is a new movement as the combination of complications is new. Earlier generations of the Duometre Chronograph did not have the day-night and moon phase indicators.

That said, the cal. 391 is otherwise identical in technical terms of the original Duometre Chronograph cal. 380 (save for some minor tweaks like reshaped levers). The lack of novelty isn’t a criticism, in fact I would have preferred a wholesale revival of the cal. 380 without the twin indicators since that would have created a purer movement from a conceptual perspective.

As a result, the cal. 391 retains all of the appeal of its predecessor. It’s clearly a modern construction, but one incorporating old-school details like the double integrated winding clicks, and a traditional balance with regulating screws.

Although the bridges here are rhodium-plated brass, instead of the German silver employed in the cal. 380, the visual appeal is the same. Additionally, there is little difference in terms of cost between the two materials, so it is not a reduction in intrinsic value.

The best part of the movement is the chronograph mechanism that is visible just beside the balance wheel. It’s a notably compact mechanism that maximises the tiny available space, bringing to mind the similarly compact Reverso chronograph as well as historical chronographs designed with space-saving in mind.

The chronograph also adds to the visual balance of the movement, as the Duometre calibres without a chronograph instead have a large, flat bridge where the chronograph would be.

The chronograph relies on a small, four-pillar column wheel

The decoration is quality industrial haute horlogerie, and very similar to the finishing in the first-generation chronograph. It’s evident much of it is done by machine, with a handful of hand-applied finishing touches, but it is done well and it is attractive.

If the Duometre chronograph was priced more affordably, the finishing would be excellent for the price. But where it’s priced should dictate more effort in dressing it up.

Concluding thoughts

The Duometre Chronograph Moon is appealing, save for the price. While it’s merely a gently reworked movement from 2007, the cal. 391 particular stands out for the high-quality of execution, though the decoration could be better given the cost.

The day-night and moon phase indicators are superfluous and get in the way of the design, though some might appreciate the colour and texture that they bring to the dial. The same applies to the apertures for the power reserve.

Key facts and price

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon
Ref. Q622656J (platinum)
Ref. Q622252J (18k pink gold)

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 14.2 mm
Material: Platinum or pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 391
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds; chronograph with 1/6th-second foudroyante; date, moon phase, day-night indicator; and double power reserve displays
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques and retailers
Price: US$70,000 in pink gold; US$88,000 in platinum

For more, visit Jaeger-lecoultre.com.