Kudoke has just unveiled an iteration of its signature day-night wristwatch, the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”, a limited edition of just 15 watches for the upscale department store Isetan, the Japanese equivalent of Selfridges or Galeries Lafayette.

The new Kudoke 2 is part of the “Indigo” series of timepieces by independent watchmakers with blue dials that pay homage to the traditional Japanese fabric dyeing technique. It retains the familiar Kudoke 2 dial with the hand-engraved day-night indicator at 12 o’clock, but with a vertically-brushed, dark blue finish.

Initial thoughts

Best known for its value-minded watches with hand-engraved decoration, the German independent sticks to what it does best with the Indigo edition. The blue-and-gold palette works well, with the rhodium-plated elements, namely the hands, logo plaque, and chapter rings complementing the colour. It is an excellent example of the affordable watchmaking with artisanal touches that’s central to Kudoke’s philosophy (and was also the base for our own 2021 Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”).

That said, this is one of several variations of the model that different only in dial colour. The many colour versions make the limited-edition concept less interesting in itself, though the Indigo is striking and one of the most appealing of the versions.

Priced at JPY1.98 million, or about US$13,500, the Kudoke 2 Indigo is the typical Kudoke value proposition with features rare at this price point. Besides being small-batch production – Kudoke makes only a few dozen watches a year – the watch has hand engraving on both the dial and movement. 

Indigo

Indigo dyeing of fabric has been used in East Asia for several millennia. Relying on a substance obtained from the leaves of a plant known as tade-ai, the dye results in a deep blue fabric. This inspired Isetan’s Indigo series, which includes watches by Habring2 and Atelier de Chronometrie. The series was conceived in collaboration with Shellman, the Tokyo-based retailer of independent watchmaking that operates the watch concession in Isetan.

The “indigo” dial retains the trademark Kudoke 2 layout that is symmetrical with a day-night indicator at 12 o’clock. Moving in sync with the hands, the indicator is hand-engraved with a stylised Sun-and-Moon motif. The half depicting daytime is plated in gold, while the other half representing nighttime is coated in black rhodium. A small gilded triangle pointer on the nighttime half indicates the current hour of the day on the 24-hour scale.

Both the chapter rings for the minutes and 24-hour scale are applied, as is the plaque for the brand’s logo. And the hands are in Kudoke’s own unique form, with the hour hand have an infinity symbol as its tip.

The Kudoke 2 Indigo retains the same specifications as its regular production counterpart. The polished steel case is 39 mm in diameter and 10.7 mm high.

Visible through the sapphire back is the Kalibre 1, which is derived from the Habring2 A11. Designed by Kudoke to echo the style of 19th century pocket watch movements, the Kalibre 1 has frosted gilt bridges in three-quarter style, revealing just the crown and barrel ratchet wheels. And the centrepiece the large, hand-engraved balance cock inspired by historical German pocket watch movements.

Key facts and price

Kudoke Kudoke 2 Indigo Isetan Limited Edition

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Kaliber 1-24H
Functions:Hours, minutes, and 24-hour indicator
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 46 hours

Strap: Blue fabric strap

Limited edition: 15 pieces
Availability: Now at Shinjuku Isetan Main Building 
Price: JPY1.98 million including tax

For more, visit Shellman-dearwatchlover.com.