A limited edition that is classic Cartier in terms of style, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is elegant but whimsically different. The Rewind retains the exact same dimensions of the standard Santos-Dumont “Large” model, but is unique in two ways.

The more obvious is the dial, which is carnelian, a brown-red mineral stone with a nuanced colour. Less obvious at first glance is the reversed hour track around the dial that complements hour and minutes hands that track anticlockwise – hence “Rewind”.

Initial thoughts

The Santos-Dumont Rewind captures the traditional Cartier style, but with a twist. As a result, it’s more than a standard Santos-Dumont, but not too much. Most of its defining elements are not apparent at a distance, so it’s fairly subtle. Everything is just right, and makes for a compelling watch.

Although this is the Large model (rather than the Extra Large that I personally prefer), the platinum case has a good heft. The bright colour of the metal also contrasts well with the dark red carnelian dial that reveals interesting shading up close.

The grain of carnelian is more subtle than the mineral stones commonly found in watches, particularly malachite and lapis lazuli. This suits the low-key complication well.

As for the hands that go backwards, it takes some getting used to. The complication is clearly pointless, but appealing because it has an elegant simplicity that suits the watch.

The Rewind costs US$38,400, which is fair enough for a wristwatch with a platinum case, mineral stone dial, and a simplistic but interesting complication.

Santos in reverse

Carnelian is a red-brown mineral stone that is occasionally used for watch dials, but not all that common. It ranges from brown to orange, but the specific type used here is a dark red with brown shading.

Because the dial is actually a thin slice of carnelian secured to a brass base – necessary due to the fragility of the sliced stone – it can seem a brighter red due to its translucency with the right light. The translucent stone also results in a “floating” appearance for the numerals at certain angles.

A slice of carnelian glued to a brass fixture for polishing

The case is “Large”, which means it’s a compact 31.4 mm in diameter and just 7.3 mm. The dimensions give it the feel of a vintage watch, though it does not look like a remake in any sense.

It’s entirely in platinum with the usual finishing of the Santos-Dumont, namely linear brushing on the case middle and a mirror-polished bezel. The finishing is simple, but done neatly.

The case back is solid and conceals the cal. 230 MC. It’s a variant of the cal. 430 MC found in the other Santos-Dumont models, which is in turn a Piaget 430P, an ultra-thin hand-wind movement that’s basic but solid. Because of the small size and age of the movement (it was launched in 1998), the power reserve is a short 36 hours.

The cal. 230 MC is modified with extra gears to reverse the direction of the hands. The modification is mechanically straightforward, so presumably the movement remains the same height, or gains a negligible extra thickness, explaining the unchanged case thickness.

The Alberto Santos-Dumont signature on the case back is mirrored in a nod to the time display

Key facts and price

Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind
Ref. WGSA0089

Diameter: 31.4 mm
Height: 7.3 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: 230 MC
Features: Hours and minutes going anticlockwise
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 36 hours

Strap: Alligator leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: Now at Cartier boutiques and retailers
Price: US$38,400 before taxes

For more, visit Cartier.com