H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base.

It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism.

Initial thoughts

The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect.

Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction.

The case back is etched with the Sincere Fine Watches logo

That said, the design has no tangible connection to Sincere Fine Watches aside from the sapphire back that has an engraving of the retailer’s logo. Seen one way, it makes the watch less significant as an anniversary edition, but from another perspective it’s a good thing: it widens the audience to all enthusiasts, even those outside Sincere’s territories.

Priced at S$130,000 (or about US$97,000), the Sincere edition perpetual is a good value proposition, as most of Moser’s perpetual calendars are. The calendar movement is both innovative and high quality, while the purple enamel dial gives it artisanal flair.

Purple fumé

As is often the case with Moser, the visual highlight is the dial, which in typical Moser fashion is both fumé and minimalist. The “concept” dial does almost with almost everything, except for large legible windows for the month and date, along with a power reserve indicator at nine, and a small seconds at six o’clock.

The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in the dark

Moreover, the dial is in grand feu enamel, which Moser rarely applies to its perpetual calendars. Labour intensive to produce, the dial is made by a specialist enameller.

First, a pattern resembling hammered texturing is engraved onto a solid gold base. Then a mix of enamel pigments are applied, one layer at a time followed by a firing in an oven. A total of ten to twelve firings are required to create the graduated finish that is a translucent, rich purple in the centre, darkening to black on the edges. A similar technique was employed for the recent time-only Moser Streamliner.

The purple enamel dial up close

The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar features an 18k red gold case that is 42.8 mm in diameter and 15.2 mm in thickness. The case middle and bezel are 18k gold, but the case back, inner lugs, and lug inserts are in DLC-coated titanium, giving it a subtle two-tone appearance.

Although not quite a sports watch like the Streamliner, the Pioneer is a sporty elegant watch, so the case is rated to 120 m while its strap is water-proof perforated rubber.

The black DLC-treated titanium inserts in between the lugs.

Visible through the open case back is the manual-wind HMC 808. Originally developed with the help of independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler, the in-house movement is a clever approach to the perpetual calendar that condenses the display into large, legible indicators, while also boasting a long, seven-day power reserve.

While the dial shows the date and month, the leap-year cycle indicator sits on the back on the larger barrel bridge. And it is a “Flash Calendar”, so the calendar indications change instantaneously at midnight. Additionally, it was constructed with user friendliness in mind, so the calendar can set be set at any time of day without damaging the mechanism.

Moser’s in-house HMC 808

Key facts and price

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
Ref. 3808-0900

Diameter: 42.8 mm
Height: 15.2 mm
Material: 18k red gold with black DLC-treated titanium inserts
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 120 m

Movement: Cal. HMC 808
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds and perpetual calendar with leap year indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour
Power reserve: Seven days

Strap: Black rubber strap with red gold pin buckle

Limited edition: 20 pieces
Availability: Now at Sincere Fine Watches
Price: 130,000 Singapore dollars including GST (equivalent to about US$97,000)

For more, visit Sincerewatch.com.