Alongside its compatriots MB&F and Ressence, H. Moser & Cie. is utilising Dubai Watch Week to debut a new model, the Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, which is also the premiere of the all-new HMC 500 movement with a micro-rotor.
The first Streamliner to sport a grand feu enamel dial, the new Small Seconds retains the model’s familiar styling but with recognisably different proportions with a smaller and thinner case.
While it is thiner and smaller, the new model has a similarly sized dial, giving it a completely different look and feel compared to the centre-seconds model. As a result, the Streamliner Small Seconds has a bit more of a retro feel in terms of proportions.
The enamel dial is an interesting twist on the blue dial that’s become the norm for luxury-sports watches, and it is attractive, but a peculiar and somewhat mismatched feature for a sports watch given the relative fragility of enamel compared to a standard brass dial.
Over on the back, the view is also attractive as the architecture of the HMC 500 was clearly devised with aesthetics in mind. The movement reveals lots of moving parts and sports high-contrast finishing, giving it an intricate appearance that’s different from past Moser automatic movements.
Priced at CHF29,900, the new Streamliner is about 50% pricier than its centre-seconds counterpart. The price increase can be justified by the enamel dial and new movement, though the new watch is pricey enough that the value proposition is not as appealing as that of its predecessor.
The Streamliner Small Seconds is 39 mm in diameter and about 10 mm high, only modestly smaller than the centre-seconds model in terms of measurements but enough to give it a distinct feel.
This is accentuated by the dial, which is the same size as that on the centre-seconds model. Set against the smaller case, the dial appears substantially larger.
The visual focus on the dial is logical given its finish – this is the first fired enamel dial in a Streamliner. According to Moser, several applications of enamel and a dozen firings are required to create its signature fume effect that darkens towards the edges.
The translucent enamel over a textured dial is similar to that found on past Moser watches, but here it sports applied steel markers. Though the hour markers are not luminous, the hands feature luminous polymer inserts for nighttime readability.
The HMC 500 inside is Moser’s first micro-rotor movement. The platinum mico-rotor is linked to a bi-direction pawl winding mechanism similar to the “Magic Lever”, while the power reserve is a good 74 hours.
The bridges have been open-worked to reveal both the wheels of the winding mechanism and gear train, all of which are finished in gilt that contrasts against the dark grey plating on the bridges.
Moser has big plans for this calibre, which is compact and slim. According to the brand, the HMC 500 will serve as a base for “modules developed in-house or in collaboration with our partner [complications specialist] Agenhor”.
Key facts and price
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel
Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.9 mm including crystal
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 120 m
Movement: HMC 500
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 74 hours
Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet
Limited edition: No
Availability: At Moser retailers and online store
Price: CHF29,900 (excluding taxes)
For more, visit h-moser.com.
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