Tissot has gone decidedly retro with its latest pair, the Heritage 1938 and the Heritage Small Second 1938. The designs reinterpret the brand’s watches of the 1930s, but are presented in a modern-yet-compact 39 mm case containing COSC-certified ETA movements.

Initial thoughts 

Tissot has been enjoying success with the sporty PRX collection and the 1970s-style Sideral. However, it didn’t have many compelling dress watches in its catalogue until now. Therefore, this vintage-inspired pair captured my interest.

Between the two, my preference is for the Heritage 1938, a straightforward three-hander. As one who appreciates classical proportions, I like the tasteful dial and compact 39 mm case. Having said that, “Chronometre” at six o’clock feels somewhat incongruous and could have been omitted altogether. At the same time, the small-seconds model has a date that three that just doesn’t look right.

With a price of US$825 for the three-hander and US$1,050 for the small-seconds, the two are appropriately priced considering the movement and specs. Tissot’s sister company Longines offers higher-spec version of the same movements in its dress watches, but for more money.

Vintage-inspired

Tissot’s Heritage collection is all about reinterpreting historical timepieces. True to the name, the 1938 is reminiscent of the watches produced during the 1930s. 

The 1938 is available in two variations: a three-hander and a small-seconds. The three-hander is available in either matte salmon or anthracite, while the small seconds model is only in grey.

Both largely share many of the basic design elements, namely applied Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and vintage-style Tissot logo at 12, but they look quite different.

The primary distinction between the two lie in the placement of the seconds hand. The Small Seconds 1938 features a seconds sub-dial at six and a date at three. In contrast, the three-hand version has a centre seconds and “Chronometre” in large, serif font.

The differing position of the seconds means different movements, and consequently, different case thicknesses. The three-hand model is 39 mm in diameter and 11.1 mm high, while inside is the ETA 2824-2.

In comparison, the small seconds variant has the same diameter but a height of 9.8 mm, because it contains the ETA 2895-2 (a variant of the ETA 2892, one of ETA’s thinnest movements).

Both movements are COSC-certified and operate at a high(er) frequency of 4 Hz. They are fairly basic versions of the respective calibres, so they have relatively short power reserves of between 38 and 42 hours. Upgraded versions of the calibres feature longer power reserves, but those are found in pricier offerings from Tissot (and also Longines).

Key facts and price

Tissot Heritage 1938
Ref. T142.464.16.062.00 (anthracite)
Ref. T142.464.16.332.00 (salmon)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 11.1 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: 2824-2
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,600 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Synthetic leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Tissot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$825

Key facts and price

Tissot Heritage Small Second 1938
Ref. T142.428.11.082.00 

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 9.8 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: 2895-2
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,600 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Milanese bracelet with folding clasp; additional synthetic leather strap option

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Tissot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,050

For more information, visit Tissotwatches.com.