While Chanel watches were all about the Electro “Rainbow” last year, its 2022 high horology timepieces form the Red Edition Collection. Including in the line up are the Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Editions, both ladies watches powered by the same notably interesting in-house movement, the hand-wind Caliber 3.

Initial thoughts

Chanel puts out fine mechanical movements – the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur exemplifies that – but typically with the bold, varied, and tasteful style that only a fashion house can achieve. The new pair of Boy.Friend Skeleton watches are exactly that.

The clean, distinctive shape is inspired by a perfume bottle, but it has a strong form that is appealing. More appealing is the Caliber 3 inside, an in-house movement with a strong geometric aesthetic that suits the case perfectly. It is clear the movement’s developers wanted it to look good, and they succeeded.

The Caliber 3 inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition with a clear sapphire case

Though both watches are certainly large enough to be men’s watches – the case dimensions are similar to a men’s Cartier Tank – they are unquestionably ladies’ watches (and Chanel markets them as such). Given the compelling movement, the Boy.Friend Skeleton one of the most interesting time-only watches for ladies on the market.

The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition in Beige Gold set with rubies

Bottle shaped

The rectangular case of the Boy.Friend is modelled on the bottle cap of Chanel’s No. 9 perfume. It’s a simple form but recognisable thanks to its wide bezel and chambered corners. And at 37 mm by 28.6 mm, it is a largish ladies watch. Both versions of the new Boy.Friend have identical case dimensions and mechanics, but differ in the case material.

Like the J12 X-Ray of 2020, the Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition is a transparent watch thanks to its clear sapphire case. The case reveals all of the movement, including the outer edges of the base plate that are screwed to the interior of the case.

But the sapphire is accented by 18k Beige Gold, Chanel’s proprietary gold alloy that’s a softer shade of yellow than normal. The crown and narrow frame around the crystal are Beige Gold, as is the folding clasp.

The Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition is more striking – and a lot more expensive. It’s essentially a high-jewellery watch with a compelling mechanical movement.

Its case is 18k Beige Gold, while the bezel is set with 38 baguette-cut rubies of about 1.96 carats. That continues on the crown, which is topped with five baguette-cut rubies, and also the folding clasp, which carries 23 more rubies.

Caliber 3

Like the Caliber 1 of the Monsieur, the Caliber 3 was developed from the ground up as a skeleton movement perfectly matched to the Boy.Friend case.

It’s a form movement centred on a circular motif, with the gears elegantly positioned within a series of repeating, open circles. The attention to detail in the movement is impressive: all of the wheels in the movement are solid instead of spoked as is convention, in order to preserve the circular motif.

The movement is mounted to the case via its base plate, which is secured by four screws at each corner

From the back, the repeating circle motif is more obvious, with the winding wheels leading upwards to the barrel and the going train leading downwards to the balance. And the contrast between the gilded wheels and red-coated bridges have maximum effect from the rear.

Key facts and price

Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition
Ref. H6255

Diameter: 37 mm by 28.6 mm
Height: 8.4 mm
Material: 18k Beige Gold set with 38 baguette-cut rubies
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Caliber 3
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Alligator-pattern calfskin with 18k Beige Gold folding clasp set with 23 baguette-cut rubies

Limited edition: 10 pieces
Availability: Now at Chanel boutiques

Price: US$149,700, or 216,500 Singapore dollars

Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton X-Ray Red Edition
Ref. H6948

Diameter: 37 mm by 28.6 mm
Height: 8.4 mm
Material: Sapphire crystal and 18k Beige Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Caliber 3
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Alligator-pattern calfskin with folding clasp

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Now at Chanel boutiques
Price: US$89,800, or 129,900 Singapore dollars

For more, visit Chanel.com.