Following the recent return of platinum to Panerai’s line up, the brand is continuing with precious metals, but this time with a far more elaborate movement boasting a perpetual calendar and GMT.

Despite its complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar – available as the Goldtech PAM 742 or Platinumtech PAM 715 – is smartly designed, with a clean dial that’s typical of Panerai, clean enough it resembles as a day-date Panerai at a glance.

Initial thoughts

Arriving in a Panerai wristwatch for the very first time (though there was the co-branded Panerai-Ferrari FER015 of 2007), the perpetual calendar was only incorporated in one other Panerai timepiece, the uber-complicated planetarium clock made in 2014 to commemorate Gallileo Galilei.

While simpler, the perpetual calendar wristwatch doesn’t disappoint, with its concise calendar display. While the complication is now common, few brands can boast calendar displays that are both distinctive and legible – Moser being one of the few. Perhaps more important for Panerai than any other brand, given the simplicity of its trademark design, the streamlined display means the Luminor Perpetual Calendar still looks very much like a typical Panerai.

Unlike the recent time-only Platinumtech Luminor with blue hands, the Perpetual Calendar has pink gold hands that blend into the olive background better

As the dial being the familiar Panerai design, it falls to the case materials to distinguish Luminor Perpetual from the standard offerings. The 44 mm case of the perpetual is identical to that of the standard Luminor, but it no doubt feels more impressive thanks to the unusual heft. Between the pair, the Platinumtech PAM 715 stands out, especially with its striking, olive-green dial with a radially-brushed, metallic finish.

Being a top-of-the-line model – the Platinumtech PAM 715 costs just under US$70,000 – the watch is unsurprisingly kitted out with the aesthetic details associated with Panerai, which naturally includes a “sandwich” dial. But more importantly, the perpetual calendar movement is interesting, both visually and technically.

The free-sprung balance is secured by a full balance bridge

Practical functions

Despite the fuss-free aesthetics, the Luminor Perpetual packs in a lot. Most obvious is the perpetual calendar, which separates the calendar into two faces – the most useful day and date on the front, leaving the month and year for the back – with everything set via the crown. Notably, because the calendar is gear based, it can be set at any time, even around midnight, with no risk to the mechanism.

Notably, the back is streamlined just as the front. The month and leap year are indicated via a triangular pointer near the crown, read against a pair of concentric disks, with the month on the outer disc and leap year on the inner disc. And the year display is unfailingly legible, being displayed in full with four digits.

A power reserve indicator resides near the micro-rotor

At the same time, the Luminor Perpetual doubles up as a travel watch, since it has a GMT hand on the front, which can be conveniently hidden under the hour hand when not in use. And the small-seconds register at nine is combined with the day-and-night indicator, which helps with setting the calendar and also works in conjunction with the GMT hand to indicate home time.

Based on the brand’s first micro-rotor movement, the P.4000, the P.4100 in the Luminor Perpetual unsurprisingly has a similar layout. So it includes a twin, stacked barrels as well a pair of grande sonnerie-style winding clicks that are unfortunately hidden under the micro-rotor. And also a seconds hand that resets to zero and hacks when the crown is pulled out.

Key Facts and Prices

Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar
Ref. PAM00742 (Goldtech)
Ref. PAM00715 (Platinumtech)

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Gold or platinum alloy
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: P.4100
Functions: Hours, minutes, zero-reset hack seconds, GMT, day-night indicator, and perpetual calendar
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: Three days

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 100 pieces
Availability: Only at Panerai boutiques
Price:
Goldtech – US$47,200; or 67,700 Singapore dollars
Platinumtech – US$67,800; or 97,100 Singapore dollars

For more information, visit panerai.com.