Perhaps the epitome of formal, classical style, Breguet took a more modern direction when it revamped the Marine in 2018, giving its line of sports watches a sportier and cleaner aesthetic.

The overhauled Marine was launched in three models: the entry-level Marine 5517 (which we did a hands-on review of), the Marine Chronographe 5527, and the top-of-the-line Marine Alarme Musicale 5547. Three years on, Breguet is gently facelifting the Marine Collection with new variants in titanium or rose gold – blue dials for the titanium models and slate-grey for rose gold.

Initial thoughts

Although not the most novel – these are just new case and dial combinations – the facelifted Marine watches are nevertheless noteworthy simply because they look substantially better.

For one, the blue dials on the titanium models are eminently more striking than the mid-grey of the 2018 models, which gave them a more industrial feel. At the same time, the sunburst finishing is more obvious in blue. And pairing of blue and titanium is also unusual, as Breguet usually reserves blue dials for its white gold watches.

The Marine in titanium and blue

Similarly, the new slate-grey dials for the rose gold models give them more character than the original versions in silver that lacked contrast. The juxtaposition between the warm case metal and the cool dial is intriguing and eye-catching. And the colour and brings out the wave guilloché better.

Starting at US$17,300 for the ref. 5517 in titanium on strap, the new models are priced identically to the previous iterations. As with all Breguet watches, the quality of fit and finish is high, making the Marine a well-priced, compelling option for someone that wants a modern yet uncommon sports watch.

The only exception is the Marine alarm, which is powered by a highly complicated and sophisticated movement that is as high end as an alarm calibre can be. But the alarm complication is not as persuasive as a chronograph, and it costs about 40% more than the Marine chronograph.

The 2018 Marine 5517 in titanium and grey

Facelift

Dial aside, the new Marine models are identical to their predecessors, including in decorative detail. That’s a good thing, as Breguet is one of the best in the business when it comes to finishing and decor.

The new Marine in rose gold and slate grey

The dials on both the titanium and gold models are solid gold, with solid gold, applied numerals, and finished to a high standard, as one would expect of Breguet.

On the titanium models, the dial is finished with a sharply defined, radial brushing emanating from the logo at 12 o’clock. Even though the blue dial is predominantly brushed, the logo sits within a plaque outlined with a border that was was engraved with a straight-line engine – the same technique used for more decorative guilloche – explaining “Swiss Guilloche Main”, which translate as “Swiss hand guilloche”, at six o’clock.

Similarly, the slate grey dials on the rose gold models are also solid gold discs finished with guilloche, albeit of a far more elaborate pattern commensurate with the higher price. The wave guilloche fits the theme of the Marine collection perfectly.

Though the wave motif is a modern design, in contrast to the centuries-old patterns found on Breguet’s classical models, the wave guilloche is just as finely executed and done the old-fashioned way with a rose engine. As a result, the dials look good up close, with crisp, sharply defined engraving.

Even though it’s clearly contemporary, the design of the Marine is modelled on Breguet’s signature, pocket-watch inspired look.

The hands, for instance, are Breguet style with a twist: their tips are made up of two half circles filled with Super-Luminova, instead of the traditional open tips. And the hour markers are Roman numerals, but in a geometric font.

However, the Breguet “secret signature” that’s found on practically every model is notably absent from the dials of both the titanium and rose gold models.

Breguet is no slouch in the movement department as well, with the three movements found in the Marine models – the cal. 777A, cal. 582QA, and cal. 519F/1 – each being equipped with noteworthy technical features.

The calibres have silicon escapements and hairsprings that function more efficiently than the same components made of traditional metal alloys, and also increase the magnetism resistance of the movements. And the icing on the cake is the solid gold rotor shaped like a ship’s wheel.

Key Facts and Price

Breguet Marine 5517
Ref. 5517TI/Y1 (titanium)
Ref. 5517BR/G3 (rose gold)

Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.5 mm
Material: Titanium or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 777A
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Rubber, leather, or matching bracelet

Availability: At Breguet boutiques and authorised retailers
Price:
US$17,300; or 24,900 Singapore Dollars (titanium on strap)
US$19,900; or 28,600 Singapore Dollars (titanium on bracelet)
US$28,600; or 41,100 Singapore Dollars (rose gold on strap)
US$49,100; or 70,500 Singapore Dollars (rose gold on bracelet)

Breguet Marine 5527
Ref. 5527TI/Y1 (titanium)
Ref. 5527BR/G3 (rose gold)

Diameter: 42.3 mm
Thickness: 13.85 mm
Material: Titanium or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 582QA
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Rubber, leather, or matching bracelet

Availability: At Breguet boutiques and authorised retailers
Price:
US$21,500; or 30,900 Singapore Dollars (titanium on strap)
US$24,100; or 34,600 Singapore Dollars (titanium on bracelet)
US$33,800; or 48,600 Singapore Dollars (rose gold on strap)
US$56,300; or 81,000 Singapore Dollars (rose gold on bracelet)

Breguet Marine 5547
Ref. 5547TI/Y1 (titanium)
Ref. 5547BR/G3 (rose gold)

Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 13.05 mm
Material: Titanium or 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 519F/1
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, alarm
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours

Strap: Rubber, leather, or matching bracelet

Availability: At Breguet boutiques and authorised retailers
Price:
US$28,600; or 41,100 Singapore Dollars (titanium on strap)
US$31,200; or 44,800 Singapore Dollars (titanium on bracelet)
US$39,900; or 57,300 Singapore Dollars (rose gold on strap)
US$60,300; or 86,700 Singapore Dollars (rose gold on bracelet)

For more information, visit Breguet.com.