A direct descendant of the first waterproof wristwatch that debuted in 1926, the Oyster Perpetual has long been the most straightforward offering from Rolex, a fuss-free, time-only watch that still retains the brand’s quintessential technology and design.

Rolex has revamped the Oyster Perpetual – now available in in 41 mm, 36 mm, 34 mm, 31 mm, and 28 mm – giving it new dials, including colourful lacquer in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red, and green, as well as the latest generation movements for the largest sizes. But not that all colours are available in every size; candy pink for instance is available only for the 36 mm and 31 mm models.

The Oyster Perpetual 36 in the new colours

Initial thoughts

It is heartening to see the return of fun, brightly-coloured dials on affordable models, especially in solid colours instead of being combined with quirky patterns such as the concentric decoration found on earlier generations. The bright-colour dials on the largest 41 mm model in particular make for a lively look that is very different from the usual conservative style of the Oyster.

More sedate dial colours – namely metallic silver, blue, and black – are also available, but it’s the silver the stands out. In fact, the silver dial is as interesting as its colourful counterparts. The use of gilded hands and indices on silver dial in a steel watch is unusual. Add to that the pale champagne wash over the silver finish, the result is a warm look that is sensational.

Colours and sizes

The two larger sizes of the new Oyster Perpetual are powered by the cal. 3230, a latest-generation Rolex movement that features various technical innovations like redesigned going train and paramagnetic escapement, as well as a longer, 70-hour power reserve.

Broadly speaking, the 41 mm model is available in more masculine colours – metallic silver, black, and blue, plus the glossy lacquered finishes in green, red, yellow, and turquoise. The 41 mm size replaces the 39 mm version that was available before.

The 36 mm is offered in the same colours, plus the addition of pink.

The 41 mm model in silver and black

The 36 mm in lacquered pink

The Oyster Perpetual 34 mm, 31 mm and 28 mm are all powered by the smaller cal. 2232 that is brand new and making its debut this year. It’s equipped with a Syloxi hairspring made of silicon and has a 55 hour power reserve.

The 34 mm is only available with metallic dial finishes in silver, blue, copper, and black, while the 31 mm is available in the full range of dial colours, both metallic and lacquered. And the smallest, 28 mm is available only in metallic finishes, just like the 34 mm.

Design unity

All sizes of the new Oyster Perpetual share the same dial design that is clean and minimalist, making the line-up coherent across the different sizes.

While the previous-generation Oyster Perpetual 36 had numerical five-minute markers, the new dial has a straightforward minute track with squares every five minutes, something only found on the 39 mm model of the previous generation.

Even though the Oyster Perpetual is an entry-level watch, it is still fully kitted out with the brand’s proprietary features, making an affordable yet a complete Rolex package.

All size of the Oyster Perpetual have a bracelet that incorporates the EasyLink extension in the clasp that offers an on-the-go adjustment of up to 5 mm – a useful feature when one’s wrist size changes with ambient temperature.

The luminescent material on all versions is now blue Chromalight, rather than green as on its predecessor

Key facts and price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 and 36
Ref. 124300 (41 mm)
Ref. 126000 (36 mm)

Diameter: 41 mm and 36 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3230
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet with Easylink extension

Availability: Already at Rolex retailers worldwide
Price:
US$5,900; or 7,910 Singapore dollars (41 mm)
US$5,600; or 7,490 Singapore dollars (36 mm)

Key facts and price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34, 31, and 28
Ref. 124200 (34 mm)
Ref. 277200 (31 mm)
Ref. 276200 (28 mm)

Diameter: 34 mm, 31 mm, and 28 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 2232
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet with Easylink extension

Availability: Already at Rolex retailers worldwide
Price:
US$5,300; or  7,060 Singapore dollars (34 mm)
US$5,200; or  6,920 Singapore dollars (31 mm)
US$5,100; or 6,780 Singapore dollars (28 mm)

For more, visit Rolex.com.

Correction September 4, 2020: Candy pink is only available for the 36 mm and 31 mm models; and not 34 mm as stated in an earlier version of the article.