A time-only wristwatch with an unusual movement, the 1770 Voltige is the simplest watch to emerge so far from Manufacture Royale. French for aerobatics, Voltige refers to the balance wheel and escapement that are elevated into prominence on the dial. Extra-large with a diameter of 14mm, the balance is thin and made from a lightweight alloy, beating at a serene 21,600 beats per hour.

Once founded by Voltaire 

Named after a watch factory set up in 1770 by the philosopher Voltaire during his exile in Geneva, Manufacture Royale was established in 2010 and is actually the sister company of TEC Ebauches, a movement and component manufacturer. The two share the same premises and Manufacture Royale enjoys the manufacturing expertise of TEC Ebauches, allowing it develop several movements, including a tourbillon as well as the MR05 found in the 1770 Voltige. Having its own manufacturing facilities is one reason why Manufacture Royale has managed to keep its prices reasonable – the Voltige costs SFr27,000 in steel – while making just 200 watches a year.

An aerobatic movement

The 1770 Voltige reimagines the traditional architecture of a watch movement. Immediately reminiscent of the MB&F LM101 (and also the pricier LM1), the balance wheel is the focal point of the dial. A long, sweeping bridge curves upwards to a balance cock, with the pallet fork and escape wheel secured by smaller bridges just beneath. The hour and minute hands are suspended above everything else on the dial.

The watch pictured is a prototype, hence the unattractive Etachron regulator index (the v-shaped component adjustment to a screw head) taken from a stock ETA movement. The production version will be fitted with a customised regulator index.

Though the highlight on the front is the balance and escapement, the rest of the dial offers up some interesting details. It’s made up of multiple components, with varying colours and textures. The sub-seconds, for instance, is made up of a honeycomb mesh with a countersink around it. And a plate with the brand name is attached to the dial to mirror the long tail of the balance cock.

Though the look is novel, this functions just like an ordinary movement. While the balance and escapement are up top, the mainspring and barrel are hidden underneath the large bridges of the movement. With most of the action on the front, the back reveals little except the rotor and automatic winding wheels.

Though the case is a large 45mm, the 1770 Voltige seems moderately sized on the wrist thanks to its short and small lugs. The case is actually made up of central part containing the movement and dial, with two curved bars screwed onto each flank that make up the lugs.

The 1770 Voltige in rose gold

The Manufacture Royale 1770 Voltige is priced at SFr27,000 in stainless steel and SFr42,000 in rose gold, before taxes.

Slated to be officially introduced at Watches&Wonders 2015, the new Radiomir 1940 3 Days is 42mm, and paired with a lime green strap on the steel version. And it’s also the first model equipped with the new P.1000 movement featuring a zero-reset stop seconds.

A year ago Panerai brought us the Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare 3 Days Acciaio PAM587, a replica of the transitional model that formed the bridge between the Radiomir and Luminor wristwatches. Now at Watches&Wonders 2015, the Radiomir 1940 will be introduced in a completely new guise with the Radiomir 1940 3 Days 42mm, offered in steel (PAM574) or red gold (PAM575). Though the 42mm size was available previously in the form of the PAM512 and PAM513 (which used a movement made by Piaget), the new models are distinguished two elements: the pale green Super-Luminova instead of the more masculine faux-vintage lume, and also by a new in-house movement, the P.1000. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio 42mm PAM00574 in steel has a black dial, with a lime green alligator strap. Being a brand with masculinity and military heritage built into its DNA, Panerai does not explicitly mention it is a ladies’ watch, but as the saying goes, if looks like a duck, swims like a duck, and quacks like a duck…

More traditional is the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso 42mm PAM00575, with a black dial and a black strap. 

The Radiomir 1940 42mm is powered by the P.1000, a hand-wound movement with twin barrels that give it a three day power reserve. One of the smallest movements Panerai manufactures, the P.1000 has a zero-reset stop seconds: when the crown is pulled to set the time, the seconds hand returns to zero and stops, resuming only when the crown is pushed back in.

The Radiomir 1940 42mm in steel is €7400 or S$10,900, while the red gold version is €17,600 or S$25,900. Singapore dollar prices include 7% tax.