MB&F marks its 10th year in the business with the HMX, a limited edition of 80 pieces that is its most affordable Horological Machine to date, priced at US$30,000.
Like the Porsche Boxster and Cayman which have been carefully calibrated to be just a little bit less than the flagship 911, the HMX is the machine from MB&F, artfully made more affordable to carry the flag of MB&F into fresh territory. It has an unconventional form typical of MB&F, along with a driver’s watch type vertical display, but presented in a less elaborate manner than its pricier siblings. Founded in 2005 after Maximilian Büsser – the “MB” in the company name – left his previous job as chief executive of Harry Winston Rare Timepieces where he conceived the Opus watches, MB&F has swiftly established itself as one of the leading lights of independent watchmaking. The HMX is to mark the 10th anniversary of MB&F, with the “X” representing a Roman ten.
The HMX is essentially a heavy abridged HM5, the Lamborghini Miura-inspired jumping hours wristwatch launched in 2012. Similarly automotive inspired, the HMX offers the same features as the HM5, with wandering minutes and a jumping hour, with the time display discs sitting on the top of the movement.
That horizontal display is translated into a lateral view of the time with a pair of sapphire prisms (one for the hours and the other for the minutes) that reflect the discs vertically. Just in front of the two sapphire prisms is a convex sapphire crystal that magnifies the reflected time display.
Though functionally similar, the HMX much more basic than the HM5. For the first time MB&F is using a base movement from Sellita, maker of low-cost ETA clones. And the time display mechanism has also been simplified to a degree. Instead of the brand’s typical axe-shaped rotor, the HMX has a turbine-like, red gold mystery rotor, visible from the base of the watch. It’s engraved with MB&F’s motto: “A creative adult is a child who survived.”
On the top of the watch is another sapphire crystal, much like the engine covers of super cars. This reveals the discs of the time display, topped with shiny twin oil filler caps. They are functional – unscrewing these caps allows a watchmaker to lubricate the jewelled bearings of the time display discs.
Made of steel with a titanium back and bezel around the time display crystal, the case is the smallest for a Horological Machine, measuring just 46.8mm long and 44.3mm wide. And it is just 20.7mm high.
The HMX is a limited edition of 80 pieces, 20 pieces each in Lotus Black, British Racing Green, Ferrari Red and Bugatti Blue. It’s fitted on a perforated calfskin strap similar to the racing straps of old. For those who already own a Horological Machine the HMX is decidedly budget, with a price tag of SFr29,000 or US$30,000 before taxes.
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