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Urwerk Goes Technicolor With The UR-105 TA In Orange Or Yellow (With Prices)

Urwerk’s entry level timepiece, the UR-105, is now offered in four new guises, including neon orange or yellow, a first for the brand synonymous with black or grey watches.

Urwerk has alway limited its colour palette to black, grey and sometimes rose gold. Offered in bright orange or yellow, the new UR-105 TA (short for turbine automatic) proves Urwerk can go beyond monochrome. The UR-105 Black Orange and Black Yellow have a titanium case and a black coated steel bezel, with the hour satellites and minute track lacquered in either orange or yellow, with matching nylon straps.

In addition to the orange and yellow, two more UR-105 models have been adding to the range. The first is the UR-105 RG with a red gold bezel on a titanium case, and the second is the All Black, probably Urwerk’s most popular look. Each of these watches have inserts on the case back matching the colour theme.

UR-105 RG

Materials and colours aside these are identical to the original UR-105. The case is 39mm wide and 53mm long, with a large sapphire window to display the satellite time display. A black polyetheretherketone (a high tech plastic also known as PEEK) cap sits on top of the satellites. The movement is automatic with two turbine to regulate the speed of the rotor.

Prices in Swiss francs before taxes are as follows: UR-105 RG SFr66,000 UR-105 All Black SFr64,000 UR-105 Black Orange SFr58,000 UR-105 Black Lemon SFr58,000

UR-105 All Black
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Up Close With The Panerai Radiomir Firenze PAM604 (With Original Photos, Price)

A small run of 99 pieces available only in Florence, the Radiomir Firenze PAM604 is the first Radiomir decorated with engraving, done by hand in the Florentine style.

Panerai has long offered watches with engraved hunter cases known as the Luminor Sealand, initially decorated by the gunmaker Purdey (its sister company in Richemont) and now by anonymous Italian craftsmen. Now it has extended the theme of an engraved case to the Radiomir with the PAM605, the most artisanal timepiece in its SIHH 2015 collection. The Radiomir Firenze has a 47 mm steel case entirely engraved, front and side, with a Florentine motif.

Found on the case front, four sides as well as the crown, the engraved decoration is in the Florentine style, with the Florentine lily (or fleur-de-lis) being the central theme. Engraving is usually done with lines or dots, in this case the motif is engraved with lines which are then filled with black lacquer for contrast.

On the other hand, traditional high-end engraving achieves contrast with varying the fineness of the engraved lines or dots, a technique evident in the early Panerai-Purdey Sealand watches. The same effect can be found on currency, which are printed with hand-engraved copper plates. Nonetheless, the case decoration of the Radiomir Firenze takes a week to complete.

Like most other hand-wound Panerai watches with a 47mm case, this is equipped with the P.3000. Panerai’s in-house equivalent of a pocket watch movement, the P.3000 has a three day power reserve.

Though not evident in the photos, the dial is finished with a fine sun ray brushed pattern and is a deep, dark grey. It has a sandwich construction with ivory Super-Luminova.

The Radiomir Firenze is a limited edition of just 99 pieces, evidence of Panerai’s shifting strategy as the brand matures and the overall watch market slows. Smaller runs like this will become more prominent, rather than the 1000 or 1500 piece editions that were standard issue in the past.

Sold only at Panerai’s store in Florence, the Radiomir Firenze PAM00604 costs €17,000 before taxes.

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