It seems just like yesterday but the Patek Philippe ref. 5270 chronograph with perpetual calendar was introduced in 2011, and has been available in nearly a dozen variations in that span (including the duo with the infamous “chin” on the dial”).

Now all versions of the ref. 5270 on leather strap have been discontinued – they met with middling commercial success – and replaced with something that’s sure to be a hit with traditionally inclined enthusiasts: the ref. 5270P-001 with “salmon” dial.

With this Patek Philippe is given collectors what they have been asking for, at least going by the large premiums placed on salmon-dial chronographs on the secondary market. While the new ref. 5270 is fundamentally identical to the earlier ref. 5270s, the new model has a dial that’s a major departure, at least by Patek Philippe standards, from the old.

The “salmon” colour, or “golden opaline” as Patek Philippe labels it, has always been a popular colour, but historically found only on custom dials (like those for Eric Clapton), limited editions (as with the 175th Anniversary London Grand Exhibition watches), or the priciest complications (the ref. 5101P 10-Day Tourbillon for instance). The new ref. 5270 makes the colour significantly more accessible, though perhaps some owners of expensive salmon dials watches might be lukewarm to the new launch.

Notably, the new ref. 5270P-001 replaces all earlier versions of the ref. 5270 on leather strap, including the 18k gold models. In the latest catalogue, the only other version available is the ref. 5270/1R-001, which is in rose gold with a matching rose gold bracelet.

And its other novel element are the Arabic numerals for the hour markers, something that was last found, at least on a regular production model, on the ref. 5004 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar.

As with past Patek Philippe watches with salmon dials, the hands and hour markers on the new ref. 5270P are in blackened gold. Design-wise, the rest of the dial is the same as the outgoing versions.

The platinum case is also available for the first time without diamonds, but size-wise it is identical to the gold models. Its diameter is 41mm, and height is 12.4mm.

It retains the signature flared lugs of the ref. 5270, which are beautifully shaped and probably the most overlooked feature of the watch.

The diamond in-between the lugs at six o’clock found on all platinum Patek Philippe cases.

And the CH 29-535 PS Q is again stock with the usual specs: hand-wound, 65-hour power reserve, and Gyromax balance wheel.

Price and availability 

The Patek Philippe ref. 5270P-001 “salmon” is priced at US$187,110 or SFr165,000.