Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future.

Initial thoughts

The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations.

Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects.

Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings.

The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch — same as in the UJ-1.

The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional, taking inspiration from classic pocket watches but with an interesting twist.

The UJ-2 is a very appealing proposition, although the price of over CHF100,000 seems steep for a time-only watch on its face. The UJ-2 is priced similarly to the Voutilainen Vingt-8, which is perhaps the most immediate alternative, making it arguably fairly priced.

Engine-turned dial

There are four versions of the UJ-2, with a choice of two case materials and two dial shades. Regardless of the colour scheme, the dials share the same construction. A thick grain d’orge engine-turned band encircles the offset dial, and a prominent seconds sub-dial is finished with a Clous de Paris pattern.

The main dial, however, is left flat with no engine-turned pattern, which works well for the design. The transition between the dial and sub-dial is marked by brushed rings, each punctuated with circular dots of varying sizes in the style of Breguet. The observatory hands are clean and polished, though they appear slightly too small for the overall proportions.

The UJ-2 Caliber

Inside the UJ-2 is a hand-wound movement of exceptional quality. Simple in concept—with a single barrel, a widely spaced going train, and a large balance—the caliber nevertheless incorporates very interesting details. It includes a power-reserve function to chart its 52-hour power reserve, but it does not use the elaborate screw-and-cone mechanism found in the UJ-1.

Architecturally, the rose gold-plated movement is reminiscent of early 1900s pocket watch calibers, particularly in its winding works and central bridge. The movement has a 32 mm diameter, and its components are widely spaced so that the entire going train is easily visible.

Thick graining covers the plates, while the edges are finished with anglage; the baseplate is decorated with perlage. The finishing is excellent and clearly reflects Mr Voutilainen’s personal style.

The most interesting part of the UJ-2 caliber has to be the regulating system and the escapement that drives it. The free-sprung balance has numerous timing and posing screws around its rim—far more than is typical for a modern balance.

The hairspring features a prominent Phillips curve, and its pinning point is immobile since the stud is rigidly fixed to the balance cock. This should improve stability over time, although it also adds complexity during assembly. Likely, this choice relates to the escapement, which requires the balance wheel to be perfectly centered at its neutral point.

Double direct impulse escapement

The 2.5 Hz regulator is driven by a direct double-wheel escapement—very close to Breguet’s original natural escapement concept. Although it is not explicitly stated, this escapement is the same as that used in Voutilainen’s Vingt-8 movements. Here, the finish differs slightly: the impulse wheels are not heat-blued, but the overall architecture, including the impulse jewels on the balance and the locking lever, remains the same.

The same escapement in a Vingt-8. Image – Voutilainen

The choice of this escapement is somewhat ironic, since in the early 2010s Urban Jürgensen launched a wristwatch with a detent escapement that never worked as intended. Although the project initially involved Derek Pratt, the movements were ultimately outsourced to Jean-François Mojon’s Chronode.

Voutilainen’s Vingt-8 movements—featuring his take on the natural escapement—have operated flawlessly, and incorporating this alternative escapement into an Urban Jürgensen timepiece finally fulfils Pratt’s original intention.

We have covered double-wheel escapements more extensively in the past, but in short, this design achieves more direct and efficient power transmission to the oscillator, reducing friction-related losses. Mr Voutilainen argues that this escapement is roughly 30% more efficient than a traditional Swiss lever, although that claim is bold and difficult to verify.

Enclosing all of this is what seems likely to be Jürgensen’s new signature case, here in a 39 mm diameter and 10.9 mm thickness. It is pleasingly simple, with a brushed case band and a polished stepped bezel. The most elaborate portion is actually the case back, which features a wide grain d’orge engine-cut pattern.

The lugs are stepped and polished, shaped like reinterpreted teardrops. Compared to the overall dimensions of the watch, the lugs seem slightly short—but that, at least, should improve wearability.

Key facts and price

Urban Jürgensen UJ-2
Ref. UJ-2-PT-S-001 (platinum, silver dial)
Ref. UJ-2-PT-B-001 (platinum, black dial)
Ref. UJ-2-RG-S-001 (rose gold, silver dial)
Ref. UJ-2-RG-B-001 (rose gold, black dial)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.9 mm
Material: 950 platinum or 5N rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: UJ-2
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Winding: Manual winding
Power reserve: 52 hours

Strap: Leather with 950 platinum or 5N rose gold pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Direct from Urban Jürgensen
Price: CHF105,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Urbanjurgensen.com.