Breguet gently revamps its flagship chronograph, the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077, with the addition of “Breguet Blue” dial matched with a movement finished in dark grey.

Originally only available with a classic silvered guilloche dial, the Tradition chronograph now gains a more modern look with a deep blue and grey palette, while retaining the same innovative chronograph movement.

Initial thoughts

The Tradition collection is one of the modern-day Breguet’s triumphs. Launched in 2005, the collection draws heavily from the watchmaker’s historic souscription and montre à tact pocket watches, which were created by A.-L. Breguet himself. 

Tradition models adopt the highly original movement construction of the pocket watches, transforming them into wristwatch format. The going train layout, frosted bridges, and pare-chute shock-absorbers, for instance, all are faithful to the historic pieces. 

Unique in itself for its chronograph construction, the Chronographe Indépendant 7077 is among the most complicated models in the Tradition collection. The original look of a silver guilloché dial worked well, but the deep blue colour of the new model works even better in complementing the exposed mechanics.

The chronograph, reinvented

The Tradition chronograph exists somewhat outside of the established norms of a chronograph movement, namely the vertical clutch and horizontal coupling. It features a chronograph architecture that is unique in the industry. The cal. 580DR inside is neither a cam nor a column wheel chronograph. In fact, it doesn’t employ any kind of a traditional clutch at all.

The chronograph complication is fully separate from the time-telling base movement, with its own power source and regulator. The chronograph mechanism includes a secondary gear train, escapement, and balance, which are fully independent from the timekeeping going train. 

The chronograph relies on a blade spring to power the dedicated going train and oscillator. It doesn’t require any winding, since the spring is cocked each time the chronograph is reset. 

When the chronograph is started, a brake disengages with the secondary balance wheel, which oscillates under the influence of the spring-powered gear train and escapement. When the chronograph is stopped, the brake simply stops the balance wheel, halting the gear train. 

In this fashion there is no traditional clutch involved, since the central chronograph seconds hand follows the secondary going train’s movement. The control organ is a rocker found of the caseback side, which works with the two pushers. 

This setup has a number of advantages. Firstly, the accuracy of the movement isn’t disrupted by the chronograph’s running, since the two are completely isolated and the complication isn’t feeding off the mainspring. 

Secondly, the chronograph oscillator works at a 5 Hz, allowing for elapsed time measurement of up to 1/10th of a second — just like the El Primero. The timekeeping going train is regulated by a 3 Hz balance, which is a sensible choice for lengthening the main power reserve. Both oscillators work with double-piece silicon hairsprings with Breguet overcoils. 

The main shortcoming of the system is the short power reserve of the chronograph: only about 20 minutes. This is a constraint of the blade spring, which can only safely flex to a certain degree, thus storing a limited amount of potential energy. In that regard, a classic coiled spring is preferable, but would not be feasible with this innovative construction.

Classical yet modern

The front of the watch is largely open-worked leaving the movement as visible as possible. The guilloche dial is PVD-blued and executed to the requisite Breguet standards. The colour scheme makes for a modern yet discreet look.

It has asymmetric sectors for the main power reserve and the chronograph minutes counter — which only goes up to 20.

The cal. 580DR has excellent finishing all around, with richly textured frosted surfaces and brushed steel components. The movement is largely monochromatic, with mechanical complexity upstaging traditional finishing. 

The construction still evokes pieces from A.-L. Breguet’s era, which were done in a classical French style. The caliber landscape is defined by numerous finger bridges and wide-spoked wheels. The many levers and gears make for an interesting sight, since their shapes and setup are novel.

The Tradition chronograph is a large watch, measuring 44 mm in diameter and 14.1 mm in height. The generous proportions give it the size of a sports watch, despite the classical design. But the complex movement within is to be blame for the large footprint. 

The 18K white gold case is classic Breguet style, with a coin-edge case band and straight, soldered lugs. While the unusual placement of the pushers can be overlooked, the fact that they are of the screw-down fashion leave them at odds with the traditional styling of the case.

Key facts and price

Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 Blue
Ref. 7077BB/GY/9XV

Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 14.1 mm
Material: 18k White Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: 580DR
Functions: Hours, minutes, chronograph
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz) and 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz) for the chronograph
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Dark navy strap with 18K white gold folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF86,500 including VAT

For more information, visit Breguet.com.