Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek.

Initial thoughts

Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different.

Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape.

Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving.

Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balanced with the aesthetics of the engraving, making this both a technical and stylistic challenge.

Faune et Flore is noteworthy because the watches comprise equal parts of artisanal craft and engineering. The engraved dial is a unique piece of art, while the robust, sophisticated calibre inside makes it a great timekeeper.

There is no compromise in terms of artisanal decoration or technical construction, though the Strehler case is an acquired taste. The quality comes at a hefty price — 165,000 Swiss francs before tax – which is enough for a substantial Strehler complicated watch.

Inspired by nature

Faune et Flore employs the signature Strehler wide-tonneau case. Available in either 18k rose gold or platinum, the case measures 41 mm by 47.2 mm and has a 10 mm thicnkess.

The collection debuts with two unique watches. The first is Jardin des Papillions, which translates as “Garden of the Butterflies” – a fitting choice since the butterfly is Mr Strehler’s heraldic animal.

The dial of Jardin des Papillions features an abstract composition of butterflies and other creatures, bringing to mind a Victorian tapestry and feels wonderfully hand-made. The touch of traditional burins creates a soft and organic impression that cannot be achieved with mechanical decoration like engine-turning. 

The second model is Étang des Koï, which imagines a koi fish in a pond. The deep texturing reminds of sculpted pieces of jewellery.

Subsequent pieces in the collection will be custom orders, each made to the client’s preference. The uniqueness of Mr Strehler is his openness to client commissions for bespoke pieces. This practice is increasingly rare, even among independent watchmakers. We have covered in detail the journey to a bespoke Strehler watch.

Impressive mechanics

The movement powering the watch is a derivative of Strehler’s Papillon d’Or in-house movement. Although it is a two-hand movement, the caliber is masterfully engineered and executed, with two parallel barrels and a large free-sprung balance. 

In typical Strehler style, the hairspring has a Breguet overcoil and a frequency of 3 Hz. The watch runs for 78 hours before a differential stop-work system keeps the barrels from unwinding further.

There is also a mystery power reserve indicator, cleverly built to such that it is mounted on the balance cock. The concealed mechanics leave the power reserve unconnected to the rest of the movement.

On the dial side are two sapphire gears that carry the hands. In typical Strehler fashion, the hands aren’t centred but rather off centre and closer to the crown. 

The finishing of the movement is neatly done in an efficient, clean manner. There is perlage on the balance cock, polished steel work, and Geneva waves across the upper bridges. The craftsmanship of the dial plate tends however to overshadow the rest of the movement finishing. 

Key facts and price

Andreas Strehler Faune et Flore

Size: 41 by 47.2 mm
Height: 10 mm
Material: 18K rose gold or platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Papillon d’Or caliber with engraved gold dial plate
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 78 hours

Strap: Black alligator with tang buckle in 18K rose gold or platinum

Limited edition: On commission
Availability: Direct from Strehler
Price: CHF165,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Astrehler.ch.

Correction November 12th, 2024: The case dimensions were incorrect. Additionally, the dial is a separate plate, and not the main plate.