Girard-Perregaux (GP) has expanded the Laureato Chronograph collection with an on-trend two-tone model with a brown dial. For fans of the Laureato — or 1970s-inspired sports watches in general — the new steel-and-rose gold reference strikes a balance between casual and luxurious.

While not a limited edition, GP intends to start production with a small run of just 50 pieces.

Initial thoughts

Earth-tone dials seem to be having a moment. As more watch brands continue to explore brown dials and earth tones, GP has jumped in with its own interpretation. Brown can be a difficult colour to pull off, but the glittering hobnail texture of the Laureato’s dial lends this casual colour a degree of luxury and keeps it from looking dull.

The new two-tone variant features the same dimensions as its stablemates, with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 12.16 mm. But at a time when watches seem to be getting smaller, the 42 mm size feels larger than ever. Of course, size has its perks — the large dial opening reveals a richly detailed dial, and the 18k rose gold bezel has plenty of personality at this scale.

For those who find the size intimidating on paper, the integrated rubber strap should remove much of the perceived bulk on the wrist. Rubber hasn’t always been considered a luxury material, but today it’s an industry staple, and an appealing alternative to the weight of steel or precious metal.

The everyday luxury chronograph

The Laureato Chronograph is fundamentally a robust stainless steel sports watch, but its bezel, crown and screw-down pushers have been furnished in rose gold, giving it a warm two-tone colourway that strikes a balance between casual and decadent.

The steel components like the mid-case and case back are made from 904L steel — the same grade used by Rolex — which offers slightly more robust characteristics than the industry standard 316L.

The dial features the Laureato’s signature Clous de Paris motif, this time rendered in a handsome brown that’s emerging as the current it-colour. That brown dial is detailed with some handsomely snailed chronograph sub-dials, with rose gold hour markers and matching handset.

Paying close attention to the sub-dial text and Girard-Perregaux wordmark, it’s encouraging to see the attention the brand is paying to the typography on the Laureato line. Considering typography is a factor so often overlooked, it’s pleasing to see GP hasn’t forgotten these small details.

The new rubber strap echoes the same colour and pattern as the dial and features a steel deployant clasp. While the Laureato can already be had on a leather strap, those in the existing lineup feature an enlarged and polished first centre link.

In contrast, the new rubber strap integrates much more directly, with no links between the strap and case. This approach should effectively size down this somewhat large watch and lend it a more functional, everyday feel.

Coherent with this impression, the Laureato Chronograph is rated to 100 m of water resistance, suggesting it’s ready for anything.

Modular movement

The Laureato Chronograph is powered by the GP03300, a well-known platform that pairs the cal. 3300 base calibre with a chronograph module mounted on top. One consequence of this construction is the relatively short 46-hour power reserve.

It’s worth noting this platform — which is also used in other Laureato Chronographs — is now a generation behind the recently updated time-only cal. GP4800, which features several technical refinements like a silicon escape wheel and a free-sprung balance.

The GP03300 is robust and attractively finished, but as GP’s renaissance continues, it will be interesting to how the brand modernises its chronograph portfolio – the cal. 4800 demonstrates what the brand is capable of.

Key facts and price

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42 mm
Ref. 81020-56-3578-1CX

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12 mm
Material: Stainless steel with 18k rose gold bezel, crown, and pushers
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 100 m

Movement: GP03300-2761
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 46 hours

Strap: Brown rubber strap with folding clasp

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Girard-Perregaux retailers
Price: 

For more information, visit Girard-perregaux.com.