A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format.

Initial thoughts

The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric — and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience.

The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands — one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche.

The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector.

The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch, Mr Pierre took the more difficult road and built a double retrograde movement with a complex architecture. The double retrograde function, combined with the dial-side-mounted balance wheel and the power reserve cone make for a watch face that is busy in concept but surprisingly legible in practice.

Notably, the L’Impétrant was realised with the help of prototypist Julien Tixier, and the end product is promising. Mr Tixier is best known for the Renaud Tixier brand, which has yet to establish a differentiated design language. Seeing Mr Tixier’s construction skills applied to such an interesting project is encouraging — the L’Impétrant is arguably a stronger canvas on which to demonstrate his capabilities.

To fund future development, the L’Impétrant will be released first as a souscription series of 15 pieces, featuring a mixed-metal case in 18k rose gold and zirconia alongside bespoke colourways. Once the souscription series closes, the standard L’Impétrant will be produced in limited runs of different configurations, starting with a 50-piece edition.

Bold design

From case to dial, the L’Impétrant is an eccentric watch. The bi-retrograde display features twin 19 mm gold hands that overlap and indicate the time against two pearly-white zirconia sectors. The milky white of the sectors recalls classic enamel dials — a look complemented by the traditional typeface.

The case is machined from grade 23 titanium — the higher-purity, biocompatible alloy preferred in medical and aerospace applications, making the choice feel like a nod to Mr. Pierre’s military engineering background. At 39 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm in thickness (12.2 mm with the crystal), it strikes a balance of being small enough to be easily wearable while larger enough for the time display to have plenty of visual impact.

The L’Impétrant’s case takes a classical round form as its starting point, but the details are thoroughly contemporary. The hollowed-out case band gives it an architectural quality, while the open lugs are an unusual touch.

Strong engineering chops

The movement making the L’Impétrant tick is an exercise in architectural watchmaking. Without a traditional dial, the onlooker is immediately treated to a thorough view of the well-decorated calibre.

The most dynamic aspect of the design is naturally its regulator and escapement, which are mounted dial-side up. The large free-sprung balance beats at a leisurely 3 Hz pace and the hairspring features an elegant Breguet overcoil.

Much of the retrograde works are made visible by the lack of a traditional dial and, spotlighting the snail cam and follower mechanism responsible for the retrograde minutes indication.

The openworked architecture also reveals the dial-side winding gears. The mainspring barrel is inverted inside the movement, with the barrel drum facing the case back side. There is also a Maltese cross stop-work, which limits the running of the movement to keep it within the sweet spot of the torque curve. On the reverse, the architecture reveals the going train and two quiet complications.

The most dynamic case back-side indication is the small seconds, which reads against yet another zirconia sub-dial. The display reminds of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum, but here the construction allows the seconds hand to sweep in the clockwise direction.

The second case back-side display is a power reserve indicator, which relies on a ruby differential screw-and-cone system. This sort of mechanism was widely employed by craftsmen such as George Daniels and Derek Pratt, and remains associated with high-grade movements.

But compared to these illustrious predecessors, Mr Pierre went for an alternative construction, placing the ruby cone’s axis in-plane with the movement, as opposed to the more-common perpendicular arrangement. This sort of assembly involves the use of right-angle gearing solutions (such as bevel gears), adding an unexpected degree of complexity to this artisanal time-only movement.

The ruby cone works with a ruby follower, which reads the remaining power reserve off the cone’s sloped surface. As the cone moves up and down, its radius at the follower changes, causing the power reserve hand to move. Usually made of polished steel, the ruby cone stands out, being similar that used in the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2.

In terms of finishing, the L’Impétrant doesn’t disappoint, being the product of a who’s who of independent artisans including Philippe Narbel and Severine Vitali. Likewise, the model name is hand-engraved by the talented artisan Eddy Jaquet.

There are opulent gold settings for the jewels and hand-finished anglage on the brushed steel components. The ruthenium-plated frosted baseplate offers a matte texture against which the polished surfaces gleam.

Key Facts and Price

Stéphane Pierre L’Impétrant

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10.8 mm
Material: Grade 23 titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Unknown

Movement: In-house developed movement
Features: Retrograde hours and minutes, small seconds and power reserve indicator on the case back side
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wound
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Calf leather strap with matching titanium clasp

Limited edition: Yes, 65 pieces (15-piece souscription series followed by an additional 50 pieces)
Availability: Directly from Stéphane Pierre
Price: Upon request

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