This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion. One is a sombre 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary model (Ref. 134303) which blends gold with steel and the other is a playful 36 mm Jubilee Dial (Ref. 126000) which focuses on colour and patterns. 

Initial thoughts

Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago.

This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The  restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. 

At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters printed in vivid colours make for a look that is split between vintage inspired and excessively modern. 

This Oyster Perpetual duo manages to bridge the two faces of modern Rolex: the understated aesthetics that have come to define the brad and the lavish, sometimes even playful designs that have come out in recent years.

Interestingly the two pieces are not limited editions. While that might be understandable for the Jubilee model, it is seldom that celebratory pieces like the 41 mm Anniversary are not strictly limited runs. The 41 mm Anniversary model is priced at $9,650 while the 36 mm Jubilee Oyster Perpetual is priced at $6,750. 

Celebrating the Oyster in 41 mm

The Anniversary Ref. 134303 Oyster Perpetual is as stripped down as they come. No date and time only, this anniversary model pays proper tribute to the original Oyster pieces, which were conceived as true no-nonsense tools. 

The Anniversary version of the Oyster Perpetual is however slightly indulgent as it pairs the basic Oystersteel construction with 18K yellow gold for the bezel and crown. Rolex calls this particular gold on steel configuration Rolesor.

The dial is kept simple but features some discreet celebratory elements. The indices and hands are all made form the same 18K yellow gold as the case elements, which is not encountered in standard Oyster perpetual models. 

The Rolex logo is printed in green, which makes reminds slightly of the Wimbledon Datejust. The usual coronet-embellished “Swiss Made” print at the bottom of the dial was replaced by a “100 Years” inscription — the second openly celebratory marking on this model, with the first being the “100” engraving on the crown. 

Otherwise, the Anniversary model is constructed much like any other 41 mm Oyster Perpetual. The watch is powered by Rolex’s current workhorse movement, the caliber 3230. The time-only movement comes with all the brand’s bells and whistles (Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring) and runs for about 70 hours operating at a 4 Hz frequency. 

A colourful Jubilee

The other notable Oyster Perpetual release is the joyous Jubilee configuration of Ref. 126000. Apart from the extravagantly-patterned dial, the watch is constructed and priced like any standard  36 mm Oyster Perpetual. 

The core element of this particular version is clearly the dial, which reinvents the Art Deco embossed Jubilee pattern championed in the ‘70s. Following similar successful models built on colour and playful prints, the Jubilee Oyster sees the Rolex name printed in blocky, colourful letters. 

Resembling a cross-word puzzle, the colourful Jubilee pattern can be read both vertically and horizontally, which can get a little hypnotic. Since there are many colours involved and the pattern is rather intertwined, each hue is applied separately, so the dial goes through as many painting processes as there are colours in the pattern. All in all, this is one of Rolex’s more intriguing dials. 

Key facts and price

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 Aniversary
Ref. 134300

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11.6 mm
Material: Rolesor (Oystersteel case with 18K yellow gold bezel and crown)
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3230
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 70 hours for 36 and 41

Strap: Oyster bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex authorised dealers
Price: US$9,650

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Jubilee
Ref. 126000

Diameter: 36 mm
Height: 11.6 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3230
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Oyster bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Rolex authorised dealers
Price: US$6,650

For more, visit Rolex.com.