To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch.

The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch.

Initial thoughts

The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within.

While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective.

The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end — though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike.

Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right.

That said, while it makes sense for Chopard to celebrate its milestone anniversary with what will likely be a popular new colour for one of its signature watches, it would have been interesting to see the brand mark the occasion with a new original design or calibre.

Familiar but refined

The design stays very close to that of the original L.U.C 1860. Collectors will appreciate the continuity offered by the subtle updates, including the deletion of the date and a different origin point for the hand-turned guilloché dial.

The new dial is offered in a shade called Areuse Blue, said to be inspired by a river near the brand’s manufacture. Thanks in part to the varying textures, the colour shifts between deeper and brighter tones depending on light. The dial is made of solid 18k white gold, and is hand-turned on a rose engine.

Chopard is one of the few brands that has this capability in-house, thanks to its acquisition of specialist dial maker Metalem. If the dial looks familiar, it might be because Metalem once made similar dials for Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity.

The pattern is similar to that of the first generation L.U.C 1860, but features a relocated focal point. In early references, the guilloché pattern radiated outward from the centre of the dial.

The new pattern originates at the brand logo below the 12 o’clock position, differentiating the design and emphasising the maker’s mark.

A landmark calibre

The cal. 96.40-L is an evolution of the cal. 1.96 that put Chopard on the map as a serious watchmaker in the late 1990s. Designed by Michel Parmigiani, the cal. 1.96 had dual mainspring barrels and an overcoil hairspring — features that were unheard of in a micro-rotor format — and expert finishing that put other Genevan watchmakers on notice.

It’s proven difficult to improve upon this excellent platform, which is probably why it still underpins the brand’s top-shelf time-only watches, albeit with subtle refinements like the finer engraving of the movement markings.

Impressively, it still looks good on the spec sheet three decades after its debut. It’s quite thin at just 3.3 mm and winds efficiently in both directions thanks to a 22k gold micro-rotor.

Another key detail is the twin barrel system. This setup gives the watch a power reserve of around 65 hours — extremely long in 1997 and more than adequate by contemporary standards. Furthermore, the arrangement helps deliver steady torque to oscillator. As a result, it’s a svelte calibre that still earns COSC certification.

The finishing of the cal. 96.40-L is a cut above that of mainline Chopard calibres, and easily qualifies for the Poinçon de Genève hallmark. The lustrous Geneva stripes and hand-finished anglage are the outward signs of quality, but even the unseen components are finished with care.

Key facts and price
Ref. 168860-3005

Diameter: 36.5 mm
Height: 8.2 mm
Material: Lucent steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L.U.C 096.40-L
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds.
Winding: Automatic
Frequency:  28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: From Chopard boutiques and authorised retailers
Price:

For more information, visit Chopard.com.