Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, which combines the brand’s technically adept manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package.

Initial thoughts

Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector, with a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed.

This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings; the list of brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel is comparatively short and includes blue-chip names like Patek Philippe and Ulysse Nardin. This helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint, reinforcing Orient Star’s move upmarket and helping justify the US$3,250 price point.

The watch on its complementary black cordovan leather strap.

Moreover, the M34 represents an appealing entry point to the world of manually wound Japanese watches. Seiko, Orient, and Citizen largely abandoned this format years ago, leaving a gap below significantly more expensive watches from Grand Seiko and Credor. And the meteorite pattern is an interesting idea at any price, especially compared to the banality of ubiquitous Côtes de Genève.

Black as night

A few years ago, Orient Star reorganised its catalogue into the M Collections, each named after astronomical objects catalogued by French comet-hunter Charles Messier, who recorded his findings with his initial “M” as a prefix followed by a number. For example, Orient Star’s M45 collection refers to the Pleiades star cluster and is the brand’s most formal collection. The M42 collection references the Orion nebula, and contains the brands dive watches, while M34 (near Perseus) falls somewhere in between.

The easy-wearing 39 mm case is stainless steel with a black surface treatment, though the bezel and crown are left unplated for contrast against the case, and continuity with the movement and dial furniture. Each limited edition set also includes a black cordovan leather strap on a deployant clasp. Notably, each watch in the 430-piece limited edition is individually numbered on the case back. This is not always a given, even at higher price points, but is something Orient Star generally gets right.

An open-worked movement

There’s not much to the dial of the M34 F8 Skeleton, because most of it has been open-worked to reveal the movement within. That said, the dial was not neglected. This can best be seen in the diamond-cut hands and applied hour markers, as well as the neat printing on the snailed chapter rings for the small seconds sub-dial and power reserve indicator. Of course, as with any skeletonised movement, the real standout is the calibre F8B65 inside, which is a lot of movement – both in decoration and specification – for the price.

In terms of decoration, the movement has a lot in common with other open-worked Orient Star models, featuring pearling on the main plate and surprisingly smooth diamond-cut chamfers. Within the confines of the value-oriented price point, the finishing generally matches expectations. But the F8B65 inside the anniversary edition offers a “wow factor” that’s missing from its stablemates, namely its laser-engraved meteorite motif.

This design replicates the organic crystaline structures, known as Widmanstätten patterns, that form naturally in meteorite. The lacquer-filled engraved text on the bridges is also a premium touch, though the crown wheel, which isn’t as thick, makes do with unfilled laser engraving.

Jewels from Japan

The manually wound format of the cal. F8B65 pays dividends in the tactile winding feel. The difference is due to the recoiling winding click that differs from simpler, stamped bar-style click used in the brand’s automatic movements. This makes winding smooth and silky, which is one of the reasons many collectors still appreciate manual movements in the modern age. Despite not being self-winding, the cal. F8B65 is a convenient watch for everyday wear thanks a generous 70-hour power reserve. To remind the user when winding is needed, the M34 features a power reserve indicator, a long running motif of Orient Star.

The extended power reserve is due, in part, to a lightweight and energy efficient silicon escape wheel, which allows for a weaker, and thus thinner, mainspring, increasing the total length that can fit inside the barrel. Interestingly, while the use of silicon has proliferated in the Swiss watch industry, Orient Star, with its Seiko Epson backing, remains the only Japanese watch manufacturer to embrace this high-performance material.

The more traditional aspects of the cal. F8B65 also reward examination. Take note of the unusual jewel bearings on the escape and fourth wheels; each includes a cap jewel with a shock protection setting. This setup assists with oil application and retention, as well as endshake (back and forth movement within the bearing) adjustment. Such arrangements are found on the balance pivots of virtually all decent mechanical watches made in the last couple centuries (and in more recent times are part of a shock protection system), but they’re less common on the escape wheel.

The cap jewel on the fourth wheel goes the extra mile in the tradition of high-grade vintage Japanese movements. For example, the “Diafix” settings on the first Grand Seiko – coincidentally also made by what is now Seiko Epson – reached all the way to the third wheel.

Key facts and price

Orient Star Contemporary Collection M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding
Ref. RE-AZ0105N

Diameter: 39.0 mm
Height: 10.8 mm
Material: Stainless steel with black coating
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: F8B65
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve.
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand winding
Power reserve: 70 hours

Strap: Black coated stainless steel bracelet and black cordovan leather strap.

Limited edition: Yes, 430 pieces
Availability: At retailers and the Orient online store
Price: US$3,250 excluding taxes

For more, visit orient-watch.com.

This was brought to you in partnership with Orient Star.