In just four short years the Tissot PRX has become a runaway success, spawning variants in almost every imaginable size and colour, but the new PRX 38 mm in Damascus steel stands apart. The patterned case and dial give it a tactile, almost artisanal quality rarely seen at this price point, with randomised striations that make each watch unique.

Priced at a reasonable premium compared to the standard model, the Damascus steel case and dial of the new PRX are the result of forging and folding multiple steel alloys, which are then etched with acid to reveal a distinctive texture.

Initial thoughts

The PRX has proven to be widely successful for Tissot, and is now available in countless sizes, colours, and materials. Many are forgettable, but a few stand out. The Damascus steel variant is among the latter.

The new PRX in Damascus Steel is one of the best yet, especially in the nearly perfect 38 mm size that will fit well on just about every wrist, big or small. The patterned grey texture found on the case and dial is immediately appealing, and while a full Damascus steel bracelet would have been even better, the leather strap helps keep costs in check and avoids the trap of looking too busy.

Like other PRX models, the Damascus steel edition features the Swatch Group’s signature Powermatic 80 movement, which offers a convenient 80 hour power reserve, which should last through the weekend for all but the most sedentary lifestyles. It’s not much to look at, but that’s alright given the price; most competitors’ movements don’t look any better and a few look worse.

At US$1,195, the Damascus steel version costs just US$200 more than the standard model, which is a reasonable premium for the fancier metal. That said, it’s about the same price as the Forged Carbon model, which is similarly textural but offers a superior movement with a silicon hairspring.

A material difference

Unlike regular steel wristwatch cases that are first stamped and later machined from a block of uniform 316L stainless steel, the production of Damascus steel is more nuanced. The material’s tell-tale striations are the result of different steel alloys that are stacked, forged, twisted, and otherwise manipulated repeatedly, often under high heat and pressure, prior to machining.

The final product is then etched with acid to highlight the grain, in much the same way that naturally occurring Widmanstätten patterns are exposed in meteorite.

Both the case and dial are made of Damascus steel, meaning no two pieces will look exactly alike, even when produced at industrial scale, as is the case with the PRX. This is probably the main point of intrigue, since industrially made products rarely exhibit this kind of individuality from one piece to the next.

Furthermore, the unpredictable almost psychedelic grain of Damascus steel is well-suited to the ’70s-inspired PRX, being similar in many ways to tie-dye, which became popular in that era.

Twenty-three jewels

The Powermatic 80 movement powering the PRX 38 Damascus features 23 jewels. Jewel count isn’t normally something worth paying much attention to, but it’s worth looking at when it comes to the Powermatic 80 because there are actually two different versions of the movement, and the jewel count, conveniently engraved on the automatic rotor, is the easiest way to tell them apart at a glance.

While largely similar, ticking at 3.5 Hz for up to 80 hours, the movements differ in the material used for the escapement. In short, the 25-jewel version features a metal escape wheel and a traditional jewelled pallet fork, while the 23-jewel movement features an escape wheel and pallet fork made of plastic, likely polyacetel, also known as Delrin.

It’s an economical solution, but it has its upsides. Specifically, the plastic parts are inherently slippery, which is said to reduce the need for lubrication compared to traditional metal components. This setup is also used for the Swatch Sistem51, and by now there are millions of these movements in service, so it must work reasonably well.

Key facts and price

Tissot PRX 38 Powermatic 80 Damascus Steel
Ref. T137.807.96.081.00

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 10.98 mm
Material: Damascus steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Powermatic 80
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Leather strap

Availability: Now at Tissot boutiques and retailers
Price: US$1,175 excluding taxes

For more, visit Tissotwatches.com.