MB&F opens Dubai Watch Week with a thematic reinterpretation of the HM11 Architect: the HM11 Art Deco. While the underlying structure remains the same, including the strangely satisfying rotate-to-wind case, the latest version goes all in on Art Deco motifs, from sunbeams and stained glass to ziggurats.

The 20-piece limited edition also marks a subtle turning point: the growing influence of Maximilian Maertens, who has worked alongside Maximilian Büsser and Eric Giroud since joining the company as an intern in 2017.

Initial thoughts

Though ‘merely’ a new version of an existing watch, the HM11 Art Deco feels like a sign of things to come from MB&F. The original HM11 design originated, as so many MB&F products have, as a collaboration between Maximilian Büsser and designer Eric Giroud.

But Mr Büsser is not the only Maximilian to leave an imprint on the HM11 Art Deco; that would be the brand’s Senior Industrial Designer, Berlin-based Maximilian Maertens.

Mr Maertens joined MB&F as an intern in 2017, and has worked on a number of larger objects including the Orb clock made in collaboration with L’Epée 1839. Mr Giroud will no doubt remain as critical as ever, but the growing impact of Mr Maertens is something to watch as MB&F builds for the future.

Tangibly, the Art Deco is much the same watch as the HM11 Architect that debuted two years ago, with its novel rotate-to-wind case and movement. But while everything else seems to have gotten more expensive since 2023, the new HM11 retails for the same nominal price as the original, at just under CHF200,000.

Sunbeams and ziggurats

Given its similarity to its predecessor, the HM11 Art Deco distinguishes itself largely on the basis of design. The Art Deco movement has inspired Mr Maertens for years, and the era’s iconic motifs are woven throughout the design, making the watch something of an architectural treasure map.

The time display and power reserve dial are graduated with ‘sunbeam’-style markers. The sunbeam shape is something we’ve seen before from other Art Deco-inspired pieces like the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “Tribute to Art Deco” ref. 6520C, and it works similarly well on the HM11. This is especially the case with the power reserve dial, which indicates the remaining hours of power with sunbeam-shaped markers of descending height.

Conveniently, the sunbeam shape already has precedent in watchmaking in the form of sword hands. The application of this motif to the dials seems like a natural fit, with sword-style hands that echo the sunbeam hour markers.

The hands are also an unexpected showcase for another aspect of the Art Deco movement: stained glass. The HM11 provides a subtle homage to this art form with hour, minute, and power reserve hands that are filled with translucent red enamel.

While not really in a position to be backlit, the hands are nonetheless a thoughtful touch that bridges the gap between the world of Art Deco architecture and that of contemporary independent watchmaking.

Another design element that became synonymous with Art Deco is the ziggurat motif, inspired by Mesoamerican architecture. In the HM11, the time-setting crown is serrated with a ring of small stepped structures clearly reminiscent of this influence.

A machine to live in

The HM11 Architect debuted along with Le Corbusier’s famous maxim, “A house is a machine to live in”. That idea spawned a horological machine inspired by the futuristic pod-like homes proposed during the 1960s an 1970s.

The domestic influence can perhaps best be seen in the presence of a thermometer, an uncommon feature in wristwatches. For the new edition, the typography for the temperature scale has been slightly reworked in an instantly appealing period-inspired font.

The machine itself still offers a relatively compact 42 mm diameter, though it sits up high on the wrist as a consequence of its rotating case structure. The case is made of grade 5 titanium, which helps offset the 23 mm case height; anything heavier would result in a top-heavy feel.

The case is also largely transparent thanks to a large central crystal flanked by four titanium lobes. The crystal itself features opaque borders in certain areas, created using metallisation to conceal the complex network of 19 gaskets that are required to keep the case water resistant to the stated depth of 20 m. As for the fluted lobes themselves, three of them contain dials, which display the time, power reserve, and temperature, respectively. The fourth lobe features a crown for setting the time.

Together, the four lobes provide ample grip for the rotating case, which serves two purposes. First, it enables any of the three dials to be oriented toward the wearer, and second, it facilitates rapid winding of the mainspring. Turning the case just 10 times charges the mainspring to full power, enough to run the slow-beat movement for 96 hours.

Interestingly, the HM11 movement has been subtly updated to support the Art Deco theme. This is most obvious in the gold-plated bridges that support the gear train, which have been machined to resemble sunray-stepped capstones.

The finishing is largely in line with that of other MB&F products, which is to say it’s remarkably well done and consistent. The finishing is thorough in a traditional sense, but MB&F’s use of colour elevates the appearance. The coloured plating on certain bridges, for example, emphasises the grain of the circular brushing, which is essentially flawless.

That said, the HM11 ranks amongst the higher tiers of the MB&F catalogue, so the watch features a few extra details where the finishing really shines. The tourbillon cage, for example, has been reshaped to fit the theme, and features four richly hand-finished lobes that are a treat for the eyes.

Key facts and price

MB&F HM11 Art Deco

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 23 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 20 m

Movement: HM11
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, and temperature
Winding: Manual wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 96 hours

Strap: Lizard strap with titanium folding buckle

Limited edition: Yes, 20 pieces (10 with blue dial plate and 10 with green dial plate)
Availability: At MB&F M.A.D. Galleries and eShop, as well as retailers
Price: CHF198,000 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit MB&F.com.