The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross.

Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal.

Initial thoughts

This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion.

I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually.

The Patrimony Self-Winding duo

Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date.

Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial.

Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism.

This 4 Hz movement platform has a relatively limited 40 hours of power reserve, but evidently offers very stable torque as it is often used to power additional complications.

With a pricing that’s about 15% above the equivalent standard-production models, these are is ordinary value as such things go.

In any case, for those in the market for a Patrimony, the interesting dial is probably worth the splurge.

The retrograde date

The retrograde date is arguably the pick of the litter, given both its fine execution and the importance of this complication to VC’s visual identity. The brand has a long history with retrograde displays, and it’s become a staple complication with the Patrimony range.

An especially appealing aspect of the retrograde date is the hand set and moon phase disc, which are simple yet subtly detailed. The hour and minute hands, for example, are faceted along their length, and the moon phase is rendered in textured, case-matching gold.

But the real highlight, naturally, is the embossed Maltese Cross emblem at 7:30, and the intersecting lines that radiate from it. This detail is shared across the anniversary collection, but the larger sizing of the retrograde date gives the pattern more room to breathe, adding to its impact.

Anniversary automatic

For those who prefer a smaller footprint, the 40 mm Patrimony automatic offers center seconds and a simple date guichet at six o’clock. Here the Maltese Cross dial design takes center stage, without as many extraneous markings to distract from the pattern.

The pattern helps reveal an intriguing detail of the Patrimony range, which is the slightly domed dial. Once fairly common in watchmaking, domed dials are now quite rare, given them a certain vintage charm that is missing from most modern watches.

Anniversary automatic

Both Patrimony models share the same movement platform, and like other anniversary editions, have been finished with a simple, austere treatment similar to solarisation. Termed ‘côte unique,’ the finish involves techniques that were rediscovered during the brand’s restoration of the American 1921.

But the distinctive finish is less obvious here compared to the manually wound Traditionnelle, which offers an unobstructed view of the bridges. The Patrimony models are both automatic, and the solid gold winding mass contributes to a more typical overall appearance.

That’s not a bad thing, as both models leverage the cal. 2450/2460 series movement, which is VC’s top-shelf automatic used in everything from the 222 to the Copernicus Celestial Spheres.

While the specs on paper are pretty ordinary, and the 40-hour power reserve is comparatively short, the movement is nonetheless beautifully finished and carries the Geneva Seal.

A nice detail on the anniversary edition is the ‘270’ emblem engraved proudly beside the Poinçon de Genève.

Key Facts and Price

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
Ref. 4010U/000G-H057 (18k white gold)
Ref. 4010U/000G-H117 (18k rose gold)

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 9.7 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2460 R31L/270
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde date, and moon phase
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 270 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$53,000

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding 
Ref. 85180/000G-H035 (18k white gold)
Ref. 85180/000G-H116 (18k rose gold)

Case diameter: 40 mm
Case height: 8.65 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 2450 Q6/270
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Alligator with pin buckle

Limited edition: 370 pieces in each metal
Availability: At Vacheron Constantin boutiques only
Price: US$34,700

For more, visit vacheron-constantin.com.