First conceived as an auto-racing inspired take on its jumping hour wristwatch, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the second iteration of the model. Retaining the same design as the original Monsieur Superleggera, the Intense Black Edition is powered by the Caliber 1, a thoughtfully constructed in-house movement.

Italian for “super light”, Superleggera is named after the lightweight body-on-frame race cars of the 1930s, a reference to the ceramic-on-steel construction of the Monsieur case.

Initial thoughts

The original Chanel Monsieur was proof that “fashion” brands can create watches as good as, or better than, their traditional watchmaking counterparts. I liked it for the fact that the design of both the watch and the movement were cohesive, illustrating an attention to detail – right down to the shape of the balance wheel and typography – that most watch brands lack. The Marble Edition is a particular favourite.

A sportier and slightly larger version of the original, the Monsieur Superleggera has a more designed aesthetic with the textured, open-worked dial and crown guards, but the design still remains cohesive. It has just the right amount of detail, including the applied retro “Superleggera” logo.

Styling aside, the movement remains the same and excellent. Besides the unusual complications – jumping hours and retrograde minutes in a vertically symmetrically layout – the Caliber 1 has a distinctive construction that shows attention was paid to its aesthetics. At the same time, the finishing is good and equivalent, or maybe even better, to the high-end industrial decoration found in this price range and higher.

The Monsieur Superleggera retails for about US$45,000, which is about the same as a basic time-and-date dress watch in gold from Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin. The propositions are entirely different, but the Superleggera is priced fairly considering the movement, materials, and design.

Classic cars

It’s obvious that the design is automotive inspired. The retrograde minute scale brings to mind a speedometer for example. But this isn’t done to excess so it avoids looking kitschy.

At the same time, the dial almost entirely monochromatic, so most of the detail comes from textures and layers. Although the dial is fairly complex style-wise, it is low-key at a distance. The only detail I would change is “Chanel” in bright white; the branding in black for a tone-on-tone look would enhance the auto racing-inspired aesthetic.

The symmetrical layout is pleasing, though the display takes some getting used to. Telling the time for the first time is challenging as the indications are not conventionally arranged. The hours, for instance, is at the base of the dial, instead of the more common 12 o’clock position. At the same time, the wide arc of the jumping minutes is confusing initially, as it almost looks like a full, 360-degree minute track.

In terms of execution, the dial is high quality, much like the rest of the watch. Details like the bevelled octagonal frame for the hours and chamfered edges of the minute hand reflect the high level of execution.

On paper the Monsieur Superleggera might seem largish at 42 mm wide, but it looks and feels smaller. That’s due to the all-black appearance, and also its thinness, which at just under 11 mm is impressive for a fairly complex movement with generous aesthetics.

In fact, the proportions feel like that of a modern-day dress watch, although the design is clearly sporty. The addition of the crown guards give the Superleggera a notably more sporty look than the other version of the Monsieur in ceramic.

As with the other Monsieur models in ceramic, the case is a combination of steel and ceramic. It’s made up of an inner frame in steel, while the bezel insert and case middle with the lugs are in ceramic. The reason for the combination of materials is simply due to the physical properties of ceramic – it is too hard to accommodate the torsional force of a screw-down back or individual screws.

The steel case back has four screws that secured it to the steel inner case – through its sapphire window sits the Caliber 1, Chanel’s first in-house movement for a man’s watch.

The attention to detail is perhaps best illustrated by the movement, which demonstrates a clear house style. It is clear the Caliber 1 was both designed and engineered, with equal thought put into both, a fact confirmed by Chanel’s watch design chief Arnaud Chastaingt.

A motif of repeating circles defines the Caliber 1, from the circular main bridge to the layout of the barrels and gear train. This aesthetic has since become the trademark look of Chanel’s in-house movements, including for the more affordable Kenissi movements in the J12.

Amongst the notable details include the raised borders that frame the wheels of the gear train and barrel, reflecting the integration of design and construction.

The movement also includes Chanel-specific details, like the lion medallion and star-shaped balance wheel, both representing symbols traditionally associated with the brand. These are just a few of the Chanel emblems subtly incorporated into the watch; another is the octagonal frame of the date windows that echoes the shape of the Place Vendôme in Paris.

A closer inspection of the movement reveals a high level of finishing that is a mix of hand-applied and mechanical decoration, which is typical for most large-scale high-end watch brands today.

The screws are all decorated with chamfered slots and edges

Bridges are bevelled and holes are countersunk, while the gears have especially wide bevels on their spokes and inner edges. One of the more impressive examples of machining in the movement is “Chanel” in relief and contrasting plating on the base plate.

Key facts and price

Chanel Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition
Ref. H9870

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 10.85 mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Material: Steel inner case clad in ceramic
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Caliber 1
Features: Jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and seconds
Winding: Hand-wound
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Nylon strap lined in black calfskin with folding clasp

Limited edition: 100 watches
Availability: At Chanel boutiques and retailers
Price: US$45,600

For more, visit chanel.com.