A smaller, feminine iteration of the famous chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster 38 mm is set apart by an unusual dial design characterised by oval sub-dials and a matching oval date window. Now the brand has grown the range to include new dial finished in metallic brown or green, both available in either steel or Omega’s proprietary gold alloys.

Initial thoughts

The new offerings grow the Speedmaster models catered to female consumers. Though the changes are mostly cosmetic, they are done well, with the diamonds set on the sub-dials being a particularly thoughtful detail that emphasises the oval form of the registers. At the same time, the new dial colours, which are physical vapour deposition (PVD) like other recent Omega dials, are attractive, though not new.

That said, the Speedmaster 38 mm is essentially a scaled-down version of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Though shrinking a man’s watch is often the formula for ladies watches, this would have been more interesting with more substantive changes. This is particularly relevant in terms of the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm, resulting in chunky proportions that don’t complement the styling.

The new models are priced as expected for chronograph set with diamonds: starting at US$17,400 in steel on a strap, and rising to US$46,400 in gold on a bracelet. 

The Speedmaster 38 mm in steel, 18k Moonshine Gold, and 18k Sedna Gold

Diamonds and more

The latest iterations are essentially luxury upgrades to the existing Speedmaster 38 mm models. They sport brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, registers, and crown, along with two small diamonds for the 12 o’clock marker in the trademark Speedmaster style.

Apart from design tweaks, the new Speedmaster 38 mm retains the same dimensions of 38 mm in diameter and 14.7 mm in height.

The Moonshine Gold variant with its green PVD dial

The new dials are available in either brown or green PVD, each paired with silver sub-dials. Both dials are an option for the steel model, but brown is specific to 18k Sedna Gold while green is solely available in 18k Moonshine Gold, with each metal being Omega’s equivalent of red and yellow gold respectively.

The steel model with a brown PVD dial

Like earlier versions of the model, this continues to use the in-house cal. 3330, an automatic calibre with an integrated column-wheel chronograph.

The cal. 3330 is one of Omega’s more interesting offerings. It is derived from the Longines L688, which is in turn based on the ETA A08.L01 that is an upgraded ETA Valjoux 7750. The calibre is thus several steps removed from the modest 7750 and enjoys several notable upgrades like a column wheel instead of a cam, but also features unique to Omega including a free-sprung balance attached to a magnetism-resistant Si14 silicon hairspring and the Co-Axial escapement.

The result is a calibre that has the famed robustness of the 7750, along with Omega’s various movement innovations. But the downside is size as the cal. 3330 has the same height as the 7750, which explains the thickness of the case.

The screw-down case back sports the traditional Speedmaster seahorse emblem

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster 38 mm
Ref. 324.18.38.50.60.001 (steel, green PVD dial & alligator leather strap)
Ref. 324.15.38.50.60.001 (steel, green PVD dial & matching bracelet)
Ref. 324.18.38.50.63.001 (steel, brown PVD dial & alligator leather strap)
Ref. 324.15.38.50.63.001 (steel, brown PVD dial & matching bracelet)
Ref. 324.58.38.50.60.001 (18k Moonshine gold, green PVD dial & alligator leather strap)
Ref. 324.55.38.50.60.001 (18k Moonshine gold, green PVD dial & matching bracelet)
Ref. 324.58.38.50.63.001 (18k Sedna gold, brown PVD dial & alligator leather strap)
Ref. 324.55.38.50.63.001 (18k Sedna gold, brown PVD dial & matching bracelet)

Diameter: 38 mm
Height: 14.7 mm
Material: Stainless steel, 18k Moonshine gold or 18k Sedna Gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 3330
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 52 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet or alligator leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price:
Steel and alligator leather strap: US$17,400
Steel and bracelet: US$17,800
18k Moonshine Gold and alligator leather strap: US$34,000
18k Moonshine Gold and bracelet: US$46,400
18k Sedna Gold and alligator leather strap: US$34,000
18k Sedna Gold and bracelet: US$46,400

For more, visit Omegawatches.com