In 2021, Louis Erard collaborated with a Swiss design studio on the Le Régulateur x atelier oï, a strikingly minimalist regulator-style watch with a dial devoid of scales, indices, or branding. Originally presented in a restrained grey, this collaboration now returns with a brighter, gilt finish inspired by sundials in a notably small run of just 18 pieces.

Initial thoughts 

Louis Erard’s newest offering has a captivating aesthetic that is both minimalist and striking, albeit not particularly legible. Unlike its predecessor, this has a more richer look with a golden dial that contrasts with the blued steel hands. The colour diverts the eyes towards the asymmetrical radial pattern engraved on the dial.

The rest of the watch is identical to the earlier edition, which also means the same case as the standard regulator model. The downside of that is the thickness, which at over 12 mm is substantial for a watch with a relatively elegant design.

The Atelier Oï regular is priced at CHF3,750, which is the prevailing price for most Louis Erard regulator editions, like the Oliver Mosset released in January. The new offering is a compelling timepiece for someone looking for something more artistic than the conventional offerings on the market.

Inspired by a sundial

The newest release follows on Louis Erard’s first collaboration with the Swiss design studio in 2021. With the exception of the dial colour, the watch retains the same specs as before. It has a regulator-style dial with hour, minute, and second hands on separate axes, and it is powered by a basic Sellita calibre like other regulator models offered by the brand.

This edition features a dial plated in 2N yellow gold that’s engraved with two different sun-ray patterns emanating from the axes of the top and bottom hands respectively. Though not apparent at first, each of the engraved lines is actually a minute marker on the periphery of the dial.

A straight line down the centre bisects the three axes of the hands and forms the border between the two patterns. Because the radial pattern is offset on each half of the dial, the result is gently asymmetric. 

The surface of the dial is finished with both matte and polished surfaces to catch the light, creating reflections and shadow that are meant to be reminiscent of a sundial.

The watch shares the case dimensions of the first edition, measuring a chunky 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm high. Likewise, it is powered by the SW266-1, the standard calibre in Louis Erard‘s regulator models. Based on the ETA 2824, the SW266-1 is modified by Louis Erard with its own regulator module that separates the hands to create the regulator display.

Key facts and price

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x atelier oï
Ref. 85237AA56.BVA175

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.25 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Sellita SW266-1
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 38 hours

Strap: Calfskin leather strap with pin buckle

Limited edition: 18 pieces
Availability: Direct from Louis Erard online
Price: CHF3,750 (excluding taxes)

For more, visit Louiserard.com.