TAG Heuer Revisits the Carrera Dato in “Glassbox” Guise

A contemporary take on a classic chronograph.

TAG Heuer unveils its latest releases at LVMH Watch Week 2024 now taking place in Miami, starting off with Carrera Chronograph “Dato”. Taking its cues from the original “Dato” ref. 3147 of 1968, the new Carrera features the model’s trademark date window at nine but in the contemporary “Glassbox”, accentuated by a metallic, brushed green dial inspired by the British racing green livery of historical racing cars.

Initial thoughts

TAG Heuer steadily built on the success of the Carrera “Glassbox” with several vintage-inspired designs, such as the gold and black “John Player Special” and the yacht-ready Skipper. This continues with the new Carrera that retains the original “Dato” dial with its unconventional date window at nine, minutes totaliser at three, and “Swiss” seated high above six.

But like its predecessors in the “Glassbox” line, the latest “Dato” is not a vintage remake, but rather a modern watch with vintage-inspired looks. And while the green dial is in tune with current fashions, it gives the design a contemporary feel, further setting it apart from the vintage original.

Except for the dial, the “Dato” is still fundamentally a Carrera “Glassbox” and is priced correctly at US$6,550, which is US$100 more than the standard model. Like the other variants of the “Glassbox”, the Dato holds its own against competitors, thanks to its strong execution and high-quality, in-house movement, though it arguably has an edge over its siblings thanks to the distinctive dial layout.

The new “Dato”

This new Carrera “Dato” includes the 30-minute chronograph counter at three, replacing the 45-minute counter. It gains a touch of star power through the incorporation of a teal green dial, while rhodium-plated indices and hands further enhance the overall design.

It is a fresh take on the Carrera 45 Dato ref. 3147 introduced in 1968 as a variant of the brand’s iconic racing chronograph. The “second execution” Dato was notable for having the date window at nine, which has been transplanted into the modern-day model.

The reference existed in two known variations: the ref. 3147 N, characterised by a black dial and white counter, and the silver-dial ref. 3147 S with matching sub-dial. Additional versions of this reference have emerged, including those made for drivers participating in the Indy 500 race.

An example of the Carrera ref. 3147N “Dato 45” with the Indy 500 emblem at six. Image – Phillips

Today’s Dato captures some of the vintage charm of the 1968 original while being a recognisably modern watch. Notably, it is based on the Glassbox with its distinct case profile characterise by a prominently domed sapphire crystal with a raised scale beneath. The scale echoes the curvature of the domed crystal, a nod to vintage Heuer chronographs with domed Hesalite crystals.

Additionally, the new Dato has a concentrically-brushed finish on the dial, which also sports a 30-minute counter at three, instead of the 45-minute counter on the original. And the metallic green finish contrasts against the rhodium-plated hands and indices for legibility.

The revamped Dato sticks to the dimensions the standard Glassbox, with the same diameter of 39 mm but slightly thinner at 13.86 mm. The reduction in thickness due to the modified movement that does away with several chronograph counters.

The watch features the TH20-07, a tweaked version of the TH20-00 in the standard models that does away with the constant seconds and hour counters. Changes to the layout aside, it remains identical and features a column wheel with a vertical clutch, along with bi-directional winding, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve.