The Logic and Lavishness of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Ref. 5260

Sertissage and complications.

Unveiled barely a week after the reasonably traditional Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref. 5260 is unexpected, over the top, and entirely logical. It’s available in two variants, the simpler ref. 5260/355R-001 on a strap and the no-expense-spared ref. 5260/1455R-001 that’s set with gemstones on practically every surface, even the hour and minute hands.

Now the most expensive ladies’ watch in the Patek Philippe catalogue – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 on bracelet costs CHF2.5 million with taxes – the ref. 5260 is a first in several ways.

It’s the first Patek Philippe sports model with a minute repeater, and also the first ladies’ sports model with a “grand” complication. In fact, the ref. 5260 is the most complicated sports model of any kind, with the next-most-complicated being the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740.

The ref. 5260/1455R-001

Initial thoughts

I can certainly comprehend the appeal of the ref. 5260, even though it’s evidently not a watch catered to me. As far as crazily over-the-top ladies watches with impressive sertissage and impeccable horological credentials go, it doesn’t get any better than this.

Mechanically the ref. 5260 is identical to Patek Philippe’s revered minute repeating models since it is powered by the R 27, the longstanding self-winding movement found in the current ref. 5178 and all the way back to the ref. 3979. In acoustic and watchmaking terms, the Aquanaut repeater is on par with its classical counterparts.

The “simpler” ref. 5260/355R-001

The packaging, however, is understandably controversial, but no less impressive in terms of craft. The ref. 5260 is a masterpiece of gem-setting – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 even has a brilliant-cut diamond on the cannon of the hands. It could be described as the watch for someone who finds the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” is too basic.

More broadly, the ref. 5260 is also a watch that is current, it captures today’s zeitgeist because it’s rainbow, highly complicated, (very) pricey, and a Patek Philippe.

Critics will point out it’s the first sports model that isn’t water resistant, which is probably missing the point.

Contemporary watchmaking has long left genuine functionality behind, so the Aquanaut is arguably as much of a sports watch as the Rolex Deepsea is a professional diver’s watch. So the fact that the ref. 5260 is not water resistant, like all of Patek Philippe’s other minute repeaters, is not a shortcoming in my opinion.

Granted, it is possible to make minute repeaters water resistant, but Patek Philippe says it does not do so in order to ensure the very best sound. It’s a credible claim, even if the acoustic gains are probably minimal.

The commercial rationale behind this watch is undoubtedly the same as that underlying the ref. 5271 with sapphires or rubies or the fully gem-set Grandmaster Chime – sell the same number of watches, or even fewer, but for more money. It is even more logical given Patek Philippe’s recent acquisition of Salanitro, the watch industry’s leading gem-setting specialist.

By capitalising on its brand equity, particularly in complications, and deep pocketed customers who easily trade up, it’s a shrewd way of increasing revenue without upping production too much.

A chiming Aquanaut

Designed for women, the Aquanaut Luce line was introduced in 2004 with a line of diamonds around the sport watch’s bezel. Here the concept of fine gemstone setting inside the Aquanaut family is being taken to the extreme with a full spectrum of multicoloured sapphires and diamonds.

The ref. 5260 is available in two versions, the ultra-lavish ref. 5260/1455R-001 that is fully set with baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires, and the ref. 5260/355R-001 that dials back on the gemstones.

Both watches have similar dials, with paved diamonds laid out in the recognisable Aquanaut pattern at the centre, with multicoloured sapphires used for the 12 hour markers and the Patek Philippe logo applied in rose gold at 12.

Comparing the ref. 5260/1455R-001 (left) and ref. 5260/355R-001

By far the most striking is the version matching bracelet, the ref. 5260/1455R-001, with precious stones covering nearly every possible surface of the rose gold piece, totalling over 900.

Rainbow hued sapphires have been placed throughout the bracelet, on the lugs, the flank of the case and the repeater slide.

Its sibling, the ref. 5260/355R-001 is also impressive featuring gem setting on the dial, bezel and lugs, totalling 324. With a full array of baguette and brilliant cuts, with invisible settings to allow the stones to be fully visible and the most amount of light in.

This model is delivered with three synthetic rubber straps in beige, red, or white.

While we have recently seen gem-set versions of the Aquanaut with complicated movements inside, such as a flyback chronograph or annual calendar, the use of the cal. R 27 minute repeater elevates these references above those that have come before.

Featuring two classics gongs, which when activated chime the hours, quarters and minutes elapsed from the quarter, this calibre is found across a range of other Patek Philippe repeaters, and has been built on to include many other complications.

The micro-rotor allows for a full view of the movement through the sapphire caseback, displaying the traditional finishing that has been completed throughout.

Key facts and price

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie
Ref. 5260/1455R-001

Diameter: 38.8 mm
Height: 10.7 mm
Material: Rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Humidity and dust-protected only

Movement: Cal. R 27
Functions: Hours, minutes and minute repeater
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet with rainbow sapphires invisibly set throughout

Limited edition: No
Availability: At Patek Philippe boutiques and retailers
Price: CHF2.5 million including taxes

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie
Ref. 5260/355R-001

Diameter: 38.8 mm
Height: 10.1 mm
Material: Rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: Humidity and dust-protected only

Movement: Cal. R 27
Functions: Hours, minutes and minute repeater
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours