Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection.

The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT).

Initial thoughts

Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches.

I especially like the HMS and Chronograph.  While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well.

The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for anyone in Perpetuel’s home market.

In terms of price the Perpétuel editions do cost more than the standard Baltic models, but they are evidently different in style, while also being very small runs. Given that Baltic watches are affordable to begin with, the Perpétuel are still fair buys.

Vintage eras

The watches all share similar dimensions that suit the vintage-inspired look. The Chronograph and HMS are identical at 38 mm in diameter, while the GMT is slightly larger at 39 mm. All three, however, are 12 mm high.

The similarity between the HMS and Chronograph goes beyond the case. Both have identical dial styles – a gilt chapter ring with Eastern-Arabic numerals on a black lacquered dial – that are obviously modelled on wristwatches of the 1930s.

Clearly distinct is the GMT, which has a 1950s vibe, no doubt inspired by early GMT watches of the period. Its dial is also lacquered black, but the Eastern-Arabic numerals are found primarily on the bezel. And it is also the priciest of the trio, largely due to the movement within.

Mechanically they are quite different, explaining the difference in price. Both the HMS and Chronograph are powered by Chinese movements, which are low cost but robust and reliable, while the GMT is equipped with the Swiss-made Soprod C125.

Key Facts and Price

Baltic UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection

Diameter: 38 mm (HMS, Chronograph); 39 mm (GMT)
Height: 12 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Hesalite
Water resistance: 30 m (HMS, Chronograph), 100 m (GMT)

Movement: Miyota 821A (HMS); Seagull ST1901 (Chronograph); Soprod C125 (GMT)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds; chronograph; GMT and date
Winding: Automatic (HMS, GMT); hand wind (Chronograph)
Frequency: 3 Hz (HMS, Chronograph), 4 Hz (GMT)
Power reserve: 42 hours

Strap: Calfskin with pin buckle

Limited edition: 71 pieces each, and 29 three-piece box sets
Availability: Starting December 2, 2021, at 10:00 pm UAE time (GMT+4)
Price:

HMS – US$1,590, or AED5,900
Chronograph – US$1,860, or AED6,900
GMT – US$2,100, or AED7,900

For more, visit Perpetuel.com.

Correction December 2, 2021: The cases are all titanium, and not steel as indicated in an earlier version of the article.

Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication.

Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green.

The burgundy dial in a two-tone case

Initial thoughts

The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours.

So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants.

Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dial with Sedna Gold, which is Omega’s proprietary, fade-proof pink gold, is just right. It’s a striking combination but not extravagant, or too expensive, which would have true if the case had been solid gold instead. And the two-tone look is slightly retro, which does well with the vintage-inspired design and italicised months on the dial.

Less obvious but an appealing detail are the polished facets of the fluted bezel, which give the watch a refinement lacking in the steel version that has a brushed tungsten bezel

But for the enthusiasts who wants a classic, luxe look, the solid gold version is the way to go. The all-gold aesthetic calls to mind vintage “pink on pink” wristwatches, while the onyx inlays on the hands and hour markers are a detail that hark back to 1950s Omega watches.

In typical Omega’s fashion, the Annual Calendar has a price tag that’s entirely reasonable in both steel and two tone, with prices starting at US$8,400 for the steel model with a green dial.

Annual Calendar

While annual calendar watches are increasingly common – even at the entry level as offered by Longines – few in this priced range are as well equipped as the Globemaster.

Among the details that stands out is the faceted dial, often nicknamed “pie pan” for its shape, which gives the watch extra depth and vintage-inspired flair.

Even more unusual, in both design and technical terms, is the annual calendar display. Instead of a conventional window, the month display comprises a central pointer that jumps instantaneously at the end of each month. And all of the months are rendered in flamboyant italic font that might seem odd initially but actually grows on you.

And the movement doesn’t disappoint, being one of Omega’s higher-end calibres. The cal. 8922 is a twin-barrel construction that ensures more consistent delivery of torque over its 55-hour run time. Typically Omega movements with two mainsprings have a 60-hour power reserve, but the instantaneous annual calendar display – which is a module on top of the movement – presumably consumes considerable energy.

And, of course, the cal. 8922 highly resistant to magnetism – impervious to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 Gauss – thanks to its silicon hairspring and non-magnetic escapement parts.

The metal medallion set onto the sapphire case back is also unusual, but it is a reference to vintage Constellation watches that featured the observatory logo on the back

Key facts and price

Omega Constellation Globemaster Annual Calendar
Ref. 130.33.41.22.10.001 (Green, steel)
Ref. 130.23.41.22.11.001 (Burgundy, two tone)
Ref. 130.53.41.22.99.002 (Sedna Gold)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: Unavailable
Material: Steel, 18k Sedna Gold, or a combination of both
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 8922
Features: Hours, minutes, seconds, and annual calendar
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Alligator

Limited edition: No
Availability: Soon at selected Omega boutiques and retailers
Price:
Steel – US$8,400
Two-tone – US$11,200
18k Sedna Gold – CHF28,700

For more, visit omegawatches.com.