Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve.

Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold

Initial thoughts

The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor.

The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds

The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches.

Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The design and construction are somewhat bland. The indices, for example, are simple batons that lack the interesting details found in vintage models. No doubt the dial appeals to minimalists, but more flair in the design, done subtly of course, would make the watch more interesting.

The price starts from US$16,900 for the Small Seconds, and rises to US$17,500 for the Power Reserve. That’s within the ballpark for similar watches from the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, but it is still expensive, especially for Omega, which still does best with more affordable watches.

However, compared to its competitors, Omega wins in terms of technology, and consequently timekeeping stability and magnetic resistance, as both models are outfitted with Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements. That said, Omega will soon introduce steel versions that cost half as much, so stay tuned.

Small Seconds

Unlike a centre seconds, the small seconds immediately gives away the size of the movement relative to the case. In this instance, the cal. 8927 appears to fit the 40 mm case reasonably well – though not as perfectly as on most vintage watches – as the seconds sub-dial doesn’t sit too close to the centre.

Red-on-red was used for the Tresor 125th anniversary edition, but that was fired enamel; here it’s simply lacquer

The case takes on a simple form that’s polished all around, a simple but effective finish for this style of watch. The polished finish gives the watch a more formal look and highlights the curves of the case, but is not overwhelmingly shiny as the case is only 10.07 mm thick.

Power Reserve

Identical to the Small Seconds but with a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, sitting directly above the barrel, this is the more interesting version of the pair. The two sub-dials are symmetrical, giving the dial the look of a regulator display. As a result, the Omega logo is moved from 12 to three, balancing the lettering at nine o’clock.

Key facts and price

Omega De Ville Trésor Small Seconds
Ref. 453.53.40.21.11.002

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.07 mm
Material: 18k Sedna gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 8927
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Leather strap with pin buckle

Availability: Starting September 2021 at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$16,900, or 24,150 Singapore dollars

Omega De Ville Trésor Power Reserve
Ref. 453.53.40.22.02.001

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 10.07 mm
Material: 18k yellow gold
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 8935
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indicator
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Leather strap with pin buckle

Availability: Starting September 2021 at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$17,500, or 25,000 Singapore dollars

For more, visit omegawatches.com.