While blue has been the fad for watches for some time, green is recently in vogue, if for no other reason than the endless stream of blue-dial watches. And so the pioneer of the sports-luxury watch has just launched five different Royal Oak models with dials in deep green – the first, but likely not the last, brand to do so this year.

The new offerings are actually a trio of three distinct models, with the simplest – and probably the most appealing – being the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a smoked, sunburst green dial that’s exclusive to AP Houses. In contrast, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph in yellow gold, and the Royal Oak Self-winding Tourbillon (in three variants), all feature the familiar tapisserie guilloche.

The platinum Jumbo, accompanied by a pair of Flying Tourbillons

Initial thoughts

The Royal Oak is the luxury sports watch, and it’s one of today’s hottest watches – in practically every variation. When it comes to insatiable demand, even the most minor of variations will be desirable. So the new green dials will certainly amplify the clamour – because the colour is attractive, deep and lustrous – but also because the colour is unusual for the Royal Oak.

It’s almost amusing to see the brand’s skill in iterating a 40-year old design by drawing on colours, finishes, and complications to make the Royal Oak attractive in myriad ways. That, of course, builds on a recipe that’s both intrinsically appealing and versatile – the Royal Oak is simply a distinctive, good looking watch. The Royal Oak Chronograph, for instance, is attractive in yellow gold and dark green, a slightly retro combination that looks very luxe.

One could argue that the Royal Oak has been iterated too many times, and there are way too many versions of it. But the Royal Oak remains a bestseller decades on, so the reality is there’s probably not enough of it, at least for now.

Chronograph

Yellow gold is relatively uncommon now, as most watchmakers prefer the more fashionable pink gold. Audemars Piguet is among the handful of high-end watchmakers that still uses the alloy, albeit occasionally, having launched an entire line of Royal Oak Chronographs in yellow gold five years ago.

That said, save for the new dial, the rest of the watch is essentially a stock Royal Oak Chronograph – meaning it is big, shiny, finely finished, and expensive looking – but this is perhaps the most striking version to date.

The chronograph is powered by the cal. 2385, which is a Frederic Piguet cal. 1185. A thin and compact movement, the cal. 1185 has been the movement of choice for the Royal Oak Chronograph for some two decades, although odds are it will eventually be replaced by the in-house movement now found in the Code 11.59.

Flying Tourbillon

Launched in three versions, the new Royal Oak Tourbillon is most striking in its titanium version lavishly set with baguette-cut emeralds, giving it a bezel and dial that echo each other. That said, the other two versions are just as good looking, and infinitely more wearable for the average person.

Unlike the chronograph, the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon has a newer and more sophisticated movement. Launched two years ago, the cal. 2950 was first seen in the Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon with aventurine-glass dial.

It not only has a longer power reserve of 60 hours, but also beautifully designed, as evidenced by the grande sonnerie-style winding click visible above the axis of the rotor.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm
Ref. 26331BA.OO.1220BA.02

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 11 mm
Material: 18 yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 2385
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Yellow gold bracelet

Limited Edition: 150 pieces
Availability: Only at boutiques
Price: US$74,800; or 103,900 Singapore dollars

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41 mm
Ref. 26534TI.OO.1220TI.01 (titanium)
Ref. 26532IC.EE.1220TI.01 (titanium with white gold bezel set with emerald)
Ref. 26533OR.OO.1220OR.01 (pink gold)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 10.4 mm
Material: Titanium or 18 pink gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water-resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 2950
Functions: Hours, minutes, and tourbillon regulator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Matching metal bracelet

Limited Edition:
Titanium – 50 pieces
Titanium with emerald – 15 pieces
Pink Gold – 10 pieces
Availability: Only at boutiques
Price:
Titanium –CHF139,100
Titanium with emeralds  –  CHF273,000
Pink gold – CHF170,000

Prices exclude taxes 

For more information, visit audemarspiguet.com.