A restrained yet modern take on Chopard’s ultra-thin gentleman’s watch, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is the result of a collaboration between the watchmaker and the Neapolitan suit maker. Perhaps because casual or sports attire is the de facto dress everywhere, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is thin and refined, but also clad in a striking red and black.

Initial thoughts

Watchmaker-tailor collaborations generally haven’t worked well. Anyone remember the Zegna watches made by Girard-Perregaux?

The Chopard-Kiton tie-up, however, succeeds by subtly incorporating Kiton elements into the L.U.C XP – short for extra plat, or “extra flat”. It’s essentially an all-black watch with accents of red and red gold, a high-contrast combination that works well when done tastefully, as this is.

And the fact that it’s an L.U.C also helps, because L.U.C movements are uniformly excellent in their respective price segments. The L.U.C XP is an extremely high quality watch for about US$10,000, which is strong value.

Restrained style

Headquartered in Naples and family owned like Chopard, Kiton is a vertically-integrated maker of high-end menswear, including suits made of ultra-fine wool that cost more than this watch.

An elegant watch with accents of colour, the new L.U.C XP is dressed in the colours of the Kiton logo – red and black – with the tailor’s button emblem discreetly placed above six o’clock.

It features a subtle houndstooth pattern printed on the dial, which is matched with rose gold-plated hands and markers, along with red markings at the quarters. And the strap is a Kiton fabric that’s a mix of cashmere, wool, flannel, and elastane.

The case lives up to its name and is indeed extra flat, measuring 40 mm wide and just 7.2 mm high. It’s steel finished with a fine frosted surface that’s then coated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), giving it a clean, dark grey finish.

Continuing the dark-grey theme, the sapphire window on the back is tinted grey, muting the colours of the movement. It’s the cal. L.U.C 96.53-L, a movement that is slim, refined, and finely decorated. Though not obvious through the tinted sapphire, the movement bridges are finished with a silvery rhodium plating, while the micro-rotor is tungsten.

Key Facts and Price

Chopard L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton
Ref. 168592-3003

Diameter: 40 mm
Height: 7.2 mm
Material: DLC-coated steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: L.U.C 96.53-L
Functions: Hours and minutes
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 58 hours

Strap: Kiton fabric strap, and additional strap in red alligator

Limited edition: 100 pieces 
Availability: At Chopard retailers and boutiques
Price: US$10,800, or CHF10,800

For more information, visit Chopard.com.