The most notable of the SIHH 2013 watches previewed by Cartier so far is without a doubt the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon Double Jumping Time Zones. As the name implies, this is a flying tourbillon with twin, jump hour time zones.

Ballon Bleu de Cartier Tourbillon Double Jumping Time Zones in rose gold

Laid out in a regulator format, the dial is skeletonised, revealing the double jump hour mechanisms of racks, snails and springs.

The calibre has the Geneva Seal and is finished appropriately. All of the wonderful anglage and perlage on the dial side is visible.

The double jump hour module was added to the flying tourbillon movement (based on a Roger Dubuis calibre). Because of the thickness of the jump hour module, the tourbillon had to be raised by several millimetres in order to bring it level with the dial. Over on the back, however, the base movement looks inappropriately small inside the 46 mm case.

The second time zone is advanced by the pusher at ten o’clock. One shortcoming of this as a travel watch is the lack of a day and night indicator for the home time. According to Carole Forestier, the decision to leave out the day and night display was to leave the dial free of clutter, so as to reveal as much of the mechanism as possible. Though that comes at the expense of practicality, the movement is indeed beautiful. This is limited to 50 pieces each in pink and white gold, with an expected retail price of about EUR90,000 and EUR96,300 respectively. A discussion on this watch can be seen on the Cartier forum. I moderate. – SJX

An addition to Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking range for SIHH 2013 is the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Using the 1904CH MC in-house movement with the addition of a perpetual calendar module, the new Rotonde fills a niche that was empty till now.

Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in white gold

The case diameter is 42 mm. Two metals are available, white gold with a classic silver dial (about EUR53,500) or rose gold with a chocolate dial (about EUR50,000).

Notably the movement finishing has been improved compared to earlier iterations of the 1904 MC movement used in the Fine Watchmaking line. The calibre now sports a monochromatic, sunray brushed finish on the bridges, along with prominent polished and bevelled edges. – SJX

Calibre 9422 MC