The Poinçon de Genève celebrates its 125th anniversary this year and the body that administers the Geneva Seal certification will soon announce improvements to the criteria which haven’t changed in some time. 

In the meantime, Chopard has unveiled the L.U.C XPS Poinçon de Genève 125th Anniversary, a limited edition of 125 pieces in rose gold with the exemplary LUC 1.96 automatic calibre.

Though closely related to the 9.96 Qualite Fleurier calibre which I own, the 1.96 is slightly better in aesthetics and finishing, it has the swan neck regulator for example.

But like the LUC Triple Certification tourbillon, the anniversary XPS has the unsightly Geneva Seal logo on the dial, coupled with a date window, which makes for an odd looking dial. Not ugly, but just a bit unsettling. But with a movement like that much can be forgiven. – SJX